Today I went off to the 19th to visit the much revered boulangerie Veronique Mauclerc, noted for her wood-burning oven and fabulous breads.
Veronique Mauclerc
83, rue de Crimée
75019
Metro Laumiére
My nose was pressed close to the window looking at all the goodies...
I didn't realize I was reading the labels out loud in wonderment,
"Crumble Rhubarbe! Éclair Chantilly Fraises!
Pamplemousse Pistache!" A young man passed by laughing.
A woman passed by with her little dog and paid no attention.
I tore myself away from the window and went inside. It's dreamy. All the right details for a traditional old fashioned French boulangerie.
The breads looked exceptional and sounded exceptional.
Pistache-Amandes-noisettes, pain à l'épeautre, au lin, sarrasin aux amandes, seigle raisins..
They serve afternoon tea in the back near where the baking is done on the premises.
It was the tartes that won my heart - the irresistable tarte pamplemousse pistache and a crumble griottes(cherry). Both were not overly sweet, even tart and very fruity. The shortbread crust was too good to leave uneaten as I usually do.
The cover of today's Stylist was graced with a picture of a be-wigged Steven Spielberg, president of the Cannes film jury this year, with the line,
"Et s'il avait été une femme?"
(And if he had been a woman?)
There's been a lot of talk of the paucity of women directors competing in this year's film festival and rightly so.
The same goes even more so in the pastry world. Very few women can break through 'the oven door'. Almost no women get a chance to compete for the highly desirable MOF award. And very few were competing at La Coupe du Monde de la patisserie in Lyon. Veronique Mauclerc's boulangerie is exceptional as is Claire Damon of des Gâteau et du Pain. Both should be supported and are worth going out of your way for. So please visit. You won't be disappointed I promise.
And you'll see interesting shoes on the #5 Metro to Laumiere
What a pretty, intimate pastry shop
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the info. Definitely worth the trip
Annie
I've been reading your blog for a couple of years now, and I have to say yours is the best (and I read ALOT of blogs :)
ReplyDeleteI've noticed in a couple of your posts that you'll adhere to certain "rules" for lack of a better word when it comes to food, i.e. "never eat dessert unless its fabulous" and that you "never normally eat the shortbread crust"...is this how you (and now your fellow Frenchwomen) keep your weight in check? Are there any other rules to follow that you could share or maybe do a post on them one day? I would love to hear about them....
Also, I notice you swim a lot....do you go everyday and do you find it really helps with keeping slim?
I look forward to your posts everyday.
Nancy
Do as I say not as I do..
DeleteI don't eat crust because I don't like it..never have.
I swim about 4 times a week because I love it and because I have to for the sciatica I had a few years back.
Otherwise it's fun to make up rules but I'm not much good at sticking to them if they interfere with my immediate desires.
I'm not French and never will be.
I snack too much.
Cheers Carolg
Sacre-bleu, Carol! Pastry crust is one of the great joys of life - I usually prefer pastry to its filling/topping. Between us we'd get through a lot more pastries with less waste? :)
DeleteWhere have you been all my life Rach3?
DeleteI just love that shop:)
ReplyDeleteLove!
I see you:)
Tu portes tes lunettes noires?:)
My friend sent me such a cute book in the mail today..well 2..but one is called My Little Paris..cannot wait to read it..
Thought of her..of me..of you:) Etc..
Interesting to see the men as Tootsies,,and Mrs.Doubtfires etc..
Totally your kind of place Monique
DeleteI hate when the young men laugh. :) I love your rule, do as I say.....
ReplyDeleteOh it was all in good fun
DeleteHe made me laugh too ;))
Hi Carol,
ReplyDeleteI adore reading your blog. I love seeing Paris through your eyes when I can't be there. The dogs are essential too! But what finally prompted me to write after months of reading was the picture of the red boots. Wow, I wouldn't want to have missed that! Jennie
The bread! So many loaves, so little...wait...do I detect a distinct preference for tartes over bread? Mais, oui! When do the loaves get their close-ups? Please, one day when you have become bored with all the beautiful pastries (maybe by l'annee 2039?), maybe un petit close-up?
ReplyDeleteI love the more rustic look of this place...in contrast to the high-polish places in Paris. Lots of charm and looks delish and relaxed. Delightful as usual, CG ;)
ReplyDeleteThat's the word!
DeleteSophisticated-rustic
The flavors are the same way
Putting a trip to Veronique Mauclerc on my to do list. One of my favorite trips was to the 12th to Vandermeersch for a King Cake--loved the feves and the women gave me a fabulous shopping bag too. LuLu
ReplyDeleteLOVE this wc, Carol! Didn't get an email notification for this post? ....hmmmmm...
ReplyDeleteSo great to see you write about Veronique Mauclerc! We made a pilgrimage there during our last trip to Paris and it was fab! We are heading back to Paris again next month and will be using your blog to help plan some of our itinerary. Vanessa
ReplyDeleteI was there two days ago and I loathed the place but if you enjoy the old time snotty Parisian sales staff attitude that despises the notion of customer service then by all means you should go here. And the "tea room" is just a wooden picnic table shoved into a hallway in front of the famous old stove where you can maybe get a cup of overpriced pekoe, that is, if the sales staff is in the mood, but then again, some people go for that, so if you do then this is definitely right up your alley.
ReplyDeleteJust because she's a female baker doesn't mean Veronique gets free pass when it comes to professionalism. You know I'll have more to say about this rip-off joint when I get back to my blog.
So sorry you had a negative experience.
DeleteMany salon de the have just a communal table like that especially in London.
I think it's more convivial and fun.
I shall agree to disagree with you.