Wednesday, June 17, 2020

Yesterday I stopped at a cafe for an apéro...

Yesterday I rushed out the door to go mail your PARIS MAPS uptown. And buy more stamps. And afterwards run see the Turner exhibit at MUSEE JACQUEMART ANDRE. Yesterday I got on the metro and forgot 30 stations are closed (I don't know why) but the stop I needed for la Poste flew by. And the next one. Quick as a flash I thought I'll go see Turner & then to La Poste bla bla.
At the museum gate the woman guard shook her finger, “Désolée une reservation sont obligatoire". 
I said I’m just going to the boutique (one of the best museum gift shops in Paris). 
"Ahh...pa'd problem. Entre!" 
At the gate I showed my press card & waltzed it. 
The Jacquemart is like New York's Frick. In a glorious time capsules. You forget everything and wonder where you left your parasol ☂️ and fan.
With limited attendance, viewing was better than at the press preview.
These TURNER mugs called my name. More to come on the Turner show Je te promise. 
Yesterday I spotted perfect summer espadrilles while waiting for the light to change. Don't ask me the brand or where to buy them.
French girl in baskets
By the time I reached metro Saint Augustine at 6:00 I was pooped. It was 'crush hour'.

Nothing to do but stop at a cafe and wait…
S
omething I never do. Petit dejeuner, sure, but in the evening no way. It turned out delightful.
Doodling and people-watching with my Perrier. 

*Always ask for extra glaçons/ice 🧊 cubes to stretch out your drink.

With crowds still rushing into the metro I ordered a hamburger 🍔 of yellow cheese called Cheddar + avocado. No burger in sight. No knife and fork 🍴 either? The bun was brioche and delish. By the time I finished the trains were half-empty.
I got out at Pont Marie. A barrage of Police trucks raced by sirens blasting but relaxing Parisians by the Seine took no notice. Me too. So glad I moved to Paris. Is there a place you'd like me to visit? Let me know dear PBers. I'll do my best. Especially if there is a POST OFFICE nearby💌 ❤️🐻

Sunday, June 14, 2020

The May 'Queen for a day' Paris map

Yesterday, after I finished the May Paris Map I went uptown for envelope 💌 goodies . They made us get off the Metro at Opera because Pyramid was closed due to protests. Its been months since I walked down Boulevard de l'Opera. You feel like a first-time Paris tourist all over again. 

Hard not to think immediately of Caillebaut's painting of the same boulevard. 

I wrote about Nina's Paris 2 years ago. Have you been? The tea salon's exterior is simple, but one step inside and you'll want a fan and rose petals to toss.Super feminine and delightful. 

Nina's Paris is the only official partner of the Le Potager Jardins/Kings kitchen garden in Versailles 

They develop exclusive food products made from the garden's rare fruits. 

The china too is exquisite and for once they are a Paris company that ships world-wide.

Their pink tin of delicate apple/rose tea inspired both the Paris letter

And 'Queen for a day' Paris map.
Another must-visit place on the May map is
 Debauve et Gallais Their Pistole" was a special chocolate disk designed by pharmacist Sulpice Debauve to help Marie-Antoinette take her medicine. They come in dark chocolate and different % of cocoa minus the medicament bien surI bought a 12-piece box(12€) for research purposes.

Utterly the best melt-in-your-mouth chocolate I have ever tasted.
 

Another Paris 17th century shop, Ciré Trudon, have been the queen's candlemaker since 1643. Be Queen for a day and deck yourself out in Marie-Antoinette's favorite things. Why not?.
If you'd like to receive letters 💌 from Paris please look on Etsy . Coming home on the metro there were no problems. Bonne Dimanche PBer ❤️🐻💌

Thursday, June 11, 2020

More this and that from Paris

  • This time last year we were having a bad  HEAT WAVE! This year the temperature is 71 degrees.
I'm not complaining.
Isn't this Parisian dad sweet with his kiddies? I snapped them from the bus.
Break out the Bolly. I read it in the Guardian. One month after France ended its strict 8-week lockdown, there has been no rise in coronavirus cases as life returns towards normality. Yay🍾
 The peonies are back 🍾
As are the fraises/strawberries in lush gateaux.
Ice cream of course.
The constant mushrooming of outdoor cafes is astonishing. Paris Cafe Culture is alive and well.
Why did I think everyone would continue baking bread at home when in fact they are lining up to sit down in any cafe with table and chairs. 
Extra pavement space has been given over to add more tables with great ingenuity.
Even Pierre Hermé has opened outdoor cafés throughout Paris. Maybe they should make a smaller cup for the single scoop😳🍦🐻Thanks for reading Parisbreakfast. Please share with a friend. Subscribe to my letters 💌 and maps and receive Paris in your mailbox 📮

Sunday, June 07, 2020

Fetes Des Meres and the Marie-Antoinette Letter

Yesterday I made my weekly Saturday jaunt uptown for more stick-on overseas stamps. What a change! Tout Paris was out, happily shopping for MOTHERS DAY.
Today, June 7 is Fetes des Meres in Paris. Normally its the last Sunday in May but with Lockdown and the Pentecostal holiday they changed it.  
You can't enter Galeries Lafayette or any department store without a mask, unless you are 6 years old.
The store was loaded with stunning cakes.
Flower themes from patissier Pierre Hermé.
Perfumes galore.  
Oz Garden had a farm-style flower stand in front of perfume shop Diptyque on boulevard St. Germain. 
A few weeks ago I read in the Guardian, a travel bag belonging to Marie-Antoinette sold for more than 5Xs its estimate in an auction (nearly €45,000) of royal memorabilia near in Versailles.
Wheels started churning. Ta da. Perfect for May's Paris letter  
What was inside M-A's travel bag? After all in the end Marie-Antoinette was a very good bonne maman.
Bear 🐻wishes you a Parisian 
Bonne Fete des MèresThanks for reading Parisbreakfast. Share with a friend. Subscribe to my letters and maps and receive Paris in your mailbox . Bonne Dimanche PBers 

Wednesday, June 03, 2020

Paris Outside

Yesterday Paris opened. Yesterday all Parisians ate on a TERRASSE.
So many restaurants found space on the PAVEMENT for tables.
Eataly now has an active patio in back.
L'Orangerie on Ile Saint-Louis set up tables and a take-away bar.
Some small restaurants set up tables across the street on alleyways.
Shops moved their merch onto the street like Au Nom de la Rose.
Fancy fruit stands loaded with Spring produce spill onto the street
Even the flower MARCHE AUX FLEURS was open.
The bouquinistes opened.
The pigeons have never stopped eating on my tiny bit of roof. 
Le CHARIOT à Glace appeared everywhere in a flash.
On Sunday Berthillon was mobbed like old times. It was so hot coming home yesterday I dropped my mask and indulged in a coffee cone. I ended up going to PICARD for a bag of glacons (ice cubes) clutching it to my chest to cool down on the walk home. Yesterday in the US was not such a good day. My heartfelt thoughts are with  you ❤️