Wednesday, August 30, 2023

Ice Cream in Paris in August


On Sunday I set out to go door hunting🚪 

Which instead turned into an ice cream hunt 🍨 

But first the doors - a beautiful door by architect Jules Lavirotte, renown for his Art Nouveau buildings in the 7th arrondissement.

Then I moved on to rue Varenne, loaded with elegant doorways, including door #56 on the PARIS map, Hôtel Gouffier de Thoix from 1725

I was curious to see if it was really that pale, baby blue? It was! Though here is looks sea-foam green 🎨 

Across the street is Edith Wharton’s Paris residence at #53, where she lived for 10 years. The heavily-guarded building on the left is Hôtel de Matignon, residence of the prime minister, which you are not supposed to take pictures of…i.e. the odd angle. You can see the street is empty except for police vans scattered around = Paris in August 🙄

Running around on a summer Sunday afternoon in empty Paris, inevitably brings thoughts of ice cream 🍨 I turned onto rue du Bac, also empty/vide and was
surprised to see 😮 Les Gateaux et du Pain was open. They had ice cream! The plaster models in the window were not so appealing.

A closer look at the prices was
 also not so appealing ☹️ Ouch Still I went in to check. A desperate man was buying up 5 cups of ice cream. Not for me👎 

Once more into the breach”. I have my principles.

Further up rue du Bac, Angelina was open! Dummy ice cream cups in the window/vitrine at a mere 5,50€ ! 🤸🏾‍♀️ The shop was empty. I asked the man,”I guess they are frozen?” (Meaning not fresh-dipped). 
He responded, “Of course they are frozen/congelée”, rather insulted. 
I reflected/réfléchis a bit 🤔…and decided to keep hunting 🔎 
Honestly good doors are easier to find than ice cream in August 😯 

I knew La Grande Epicerie at the end of rue du Bac, had an ice cream chariot out front. YUM YUM

As I was heading there, I spotted LE BAC À GLACES at #109 
Eureka 👍🤸🏾‍♀️🍾 

BERTHILLON may close for the month of August, but Le Bac is going strong all Summer with no days off!

Their ice cream is fait maison/made on the premises and they have only the one shop.

The ice cream chariot has always been their logo

And I Love ❤️ ice cream chariots.

Le Bac ã Glaces is known for their unusual flavor/parfum combinations
raspberry - rose
, peach - rosemary sorbets, pear - verbena, apricot - candied ginger, caramel - ginger, date - orange blossom. Now I find they have Camembert!! I wish I’d been more adventurous than plain vanilla + thé vert Matcha 

Plus the price is right.

Their name has a double meaning/ une double entendre, since a ‘bac’ is the name of an ice cream bin & they are on rue du Bac.

They opened in 1955 (one year after Berthillon). 

It’s really a neighborhood institution just like Berthillon. 
They serve food as well. A woman next to me was having a steak.
Well that’s the whole scoop on Le Bac à Glaces🍨 So next time you’re near Le Bon Marché or Grande Epicerie give them a try. Now I want ice cream for breakfast 🍳 

Ice cream is a good idea on a summer Sunday anywhere.
          By the way, Sundays in Paris in August are Kayak days.


  1. Anonymous3:15 AM

    dear Carol, you are hilarious as usual! Love the quote from Shakespeare's Henry V being used for ice cream! and the door from Hotel Gouffier de Thoix, so beautiful, I have to go see it, inspiring. . . merci!

    1. Anonymous8:12 AM

      My father used to say that to us as kids! I always thought it was from the WWI. It’s nice to know he was quoting Shakespeare 👏

  2. Good morning Carol. I like the door by Lavirotte with the ear of corn. I live in corn country and there is nothing like a good ear of sweet corn or maybe ICE CREAM. It is interesting how a cone is placed on top of the ice cream scoop in the cup. Is one suppose to put the ice cream in the cone or just eat the cone with each bite of ice cream. Then of course there is the little spoon to deal with. And all this in a little cup!! 🗼❤️🍨

    1. Anonymous8:14 AM

      I Really miss Sweet corn on the cob. Impossible to find in France 🇫🇷
      I don’t know why the cone is on top Ga, but I will definitely be returning for the more adventurous flavor combos 🍨

  3. WOW! Le Bac ã Glaces has always been my favorite ice cream shop! Their marron\chestnut ice cream is amazing 😋 Highly recommended!

    1. Anonymous8:15 AM

      Thanks for the rec! I will try MARRON next time 👍
      I am converted.

  4. Bonnie L7:43 AM

    Well, that was serendipitous…holding out until you found the perfect place, le Bac à Glaces. You deserved it after all of that strenuous door stalking!

    Love le Bac’s presentation; floral china, cut glass ice cream bowl, water carafe with MINT…so lovely! Hope you had ice cream for breakfast. 🍨👏🏻

    1. Anonymous8:20 AM

      Yes they do make it a pleasant occasion when you sit down to eat.
      It makes a difference 🌸

  5. Anonymous8:18 AM

    I felt like Goldilocks & the 3 Bears.
    I was tired but I was not going to settle for just any ice cream 🍨

  6. I love those chariots:) I can step away from ice cream..just a habit because I know it is delicious..DELICIOUS.

    1. Anonymous9:51 AM

      Chariots are such a French tradition and a sure sign of Spring when they all suddenly appear in the streets ❤️

  7. Anonymous9:50 AM


    1. Anonymous12:51 PM

      There are too many doorways to share.
      Ice cream is easier 🥰

  8. Anonymous11:11 AM

    Wonderful post Carol. I love ice cream and of course I am totally in awe of the lovely doorways in France. You shared some beautiful ones in this post. -Suzanne P.

  9. Anonymous12:18 PM

    I didn’t know Edith Wharton lived in Paris. So interesting. Beautiful pictures of ice cream ANNIE

    1. Anonymous12:49 PM

      She lived in Paris and had an illicit affair the broke up her unhappy marriage. Some of her novels are placed in Paris ❤️

  10. sukicart12:18 PM

    Fun, fun post, Carol - can hardly believe that 2 weeks from today I'll be in Paris - eating ice cream, perhaps.

    1. Anonymous12:50 PM

      Yes please 👍 We have a date at Le Bac 🍨

  11. Well, I think if I get back to Paris in the warm weather, I know where to look for ice cream! It all looks delicious, though!

    1. Anonymous3:12 AM

      We can meetup there Jeanie. It’s a date. Please come back 🙏

  12. Anonymous2:25 PM

    Bestill my heart! That was my old nabe: the 7th, en plus, I lived at 31, R. de Beaune, Metro Bac! I loved the hat makers. I think I have the shopping bag somewhere in my closet here in Albuquerque! Merci mille fois!

    1. Anonymous3:11 AM

      The 7th arrondissement is a divine area & one of the best in Paris!
      Lucky you 👍

    2. Anonymous3:24 AM

      Adorable street. I Googled it

  13. Anonymous3:09 AM

    I came across this article by chance & thought it might interest you
    Les portes de Jules Lavirotte - Histoires de Paris
    The door of the hotel Ceramic looks particularly beautiful
    Bonne journée, bises, Rosemary

    1. Anonymous3:10 AM

      Thanks Rosemary !
      It was on my to-do list…traipsing all over town gets exhausting
      Looking for ice cream does not 🙂

  14. Da werde ich ja neidisch;)

    1. Anonymous2:14 AM

      Don’t be jealous. You must have very good ice cream where you are too no?

  15. Thank you for showing that perseverance pays for ice cream! I love ice cream too, you definitely seem to have ended up at the best spot. It’s funny to think ice cream shops would be closed in summer - but that’s Paris/France I guess! Also enjoyed the doors. Funny you can’t get corn on the cob in France, the things you’d notice when you live somewhere that you wouldn’t think about on holiday.

  16. Anonymous5:08 PM

    "Once more unto the breach, dear friends" as Shakespeare wrote it.


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