Lobster Land, Trouville sur mer

For 3 days I've been doing hand-to-claw combat with a lobster. Finally I zeroed in on just painting the claw and capturing that inimitable 'lobster red' in watercolor. I think I nailed it.. There is almost no place I love better than Trouville sur mer en Normandie. Sand, sun, ocean, boardwalks, Victoriana

And lobster, my fav food. Early lobbie thumbnail sketches.

Trouville's Marché de Poissoniere was busy, busy at lunch time...12:15 and every table filled. One hour's wait. Françoise said, Let's have crepes? No way José!

I took my homard de Breton/lobster + plate and cutlery away/pour importer.

It was 90 degrees in Trouville. Hot, hot, hot. Finally a cool, quiet place to plunge into my lobster. In fact quite a few people climbed those steps, wishing me a, "bon appetite!"

The night before I ate classic Normand moules/mussels

At one of the 30 classic bistros serving moules. It doesn't matter where you go. It's all good et pas cher.

At dusk, the obligatory orangie Apero is de rigueur on the boardwalk by the sea.

During daytime Trouville beach may be hot and crammed with tourists, not that I care.

At night temps drop. Bring a jacket. While everyone is off eating moules

Cool your toes in the surf and stroll. So relaxing.

My hotel was OK. no AC.

Still with temps down in the 60s I could paint comfortably in my room

That perfect isolated beach.

What to wear in Victorian Trouville sur mer?

Ruffles if you like, a long loose skirt with flip flops. Trouville is not a fashion center. Anything goes.

Better yet, shed it all and throw yourself into the cooling surf. Next visit, I'll stay longer. Meanwhile Trouville lobsters are up on Etsy. Get a watercolor among other French goodies 🍒 in your 📮mailbox. Thanks for reading Parisbreakfast. If you enjoyed this post please share. Cheers Carolg and Bear

Summer Lobster Sale and Trouville-sur-Mer

Last Saturday I dipped my toes in the Atlantic at Trouville-sur-mer, Normandy. You must too soon. I know its been quiet around here. I've been drawing and painting a slew of lobster watercolors and now they're up on Etsy. Do take a look.

Grappling hand to claw for 5+ days. For a while I thought the lobster would escape uncaught in aquarelle...

The battle began in my room on the beach at Hotel Les Embrun. 

By the way I arrived with no hotel reservation on Saturday. Did I say delightful Trouville is just 2 hiurs away fom Paris? The local tourist office was not helpful. They suggested I find accomodation in Caen or back in Paris. What? She sent me off to a place that was already 'complet', Fortunately I spotted a post lady in the street and asked politely if she might have a room to rent? Or even a 'placard' (closet or armoir). We both giggled. She suggested I try the hotel around the corner. Bingo! They had a room and an even better one the following night. Now you know how to find a room in the height of the season. Just ask a post 📮 person.

Seafood is outstanding in Trouville.

The place to go is La Halle aux Poissons

Including 8 enormous seafood stands. Just make your choice.

Every crustation under the sun to choose from. They weight it and prepare your food on a bed of ice 🧊 with accompanying wine, champagne or water. Then serve you at tables just across from the stands. I ate here four times. Not expensive really. It depends on your choices. More pictures to come.

Come summer time you see cute old-fashioned cabanas packages in Paris shop windows.

You don't imagine they still exist like in Eugene Boudin's Trouville beach paintings.

But in fact they do. Enchanting.

And the colors!

I couldn't resist painting them. So much fun.

Beyond the beach is the boardwalk backed by simply wonderful 19th century architecture.

Many of the same houses Monet painted here

Big posters on the walls in Trouville remind you how it used to be.

In many cases only the swimwear has changed. The water is delightful. Come on in.

Back to the architecture built in the 1830s and onwards.

Parisians, artists, writers flocked here to holiday. They built such fanciful summer houses.

More summer homes back in the hills behind the beaches. Some very narrow but still wildly striped and decorated.

The view looking down on the beach/la plage. The streets above are all but deserted while everyone enjoys the beach. You can wander aimlessly admiring the houses.

Definitely consider the 2-hour train trip to Trouville, though July/August is jam-packed. What was I waiting for? 

Deauville is just across the narrow bay. I will do a post soon, but its a snobbier, more posh resort in my opinion. Not as relaxed or casual. Meantime grab a painted lobster 🦞 on Etsy. Its the season.

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Sunday in Trouville/Deauville

 

Last Sunday I took a daytrip to my favorite places in France

Trouville-sur-mer / Deauville.

Aqua Dog Normandie-La Fête de la Mer

 

On ETSY.

I went back to Trouville-sur-mer on Saturday for la FÊTE DE LA MER 🐟 

And discovered AQUA DOG NORMANDIE!

Normandy Strawberries 🍓 called ‘Favori’

 

On ETSY 

When you book your train ticket 🎟️ online, 

it’s not a bad idea to print it out in the station using the code, if you worry about losing your iPad or needing to recharge etc.

Last Day of Summer in Trouville-Deauville

 

No more umbrellas to be seen on the beach 🏖️ last Sunday in August in Trouville/ Deauville.

Nice to know they cost 17€ and 7,50€ for deck chairs for next year’s visit.

Marché aux Poissons, Trouville-sur-mer

A bit more on Trouville and the wonderful seafood. Non-seafood eaters may want to leave now. I didn't go into the Casino. Don't know why, but it was right outside my window. Renovated in 1937. You don't have to win at the Casino to eat lobster in Trouville btw.

Maybe Monet would have loved the light changing on the Casino me thinks...

Les halles des poissons is quite a large building. I discovered it by chance and curiosity.

Typically Normandy-style split timbers (faux).

They open at 8am and go to 8 pm in the evening, but if you want to eat ‘sur place’ get there by 6. I missed out on the famous 'Jeanette's soupe de poisson' sadly.

Its another kind of promenade like the boardwalk at the beach (la planche).

Everyone is doing it.

The choices are delectable.

If you want the other local cooked specialty like moules et frites, you must go to a restaurant or cafe. They don't cook to order at les Halles.

The metal basket the waiter is holding will contain your choice of seafood.

After the weigh-in it comes back to you like this plate heaped on a bed of ice.

My last lunch in Trouville-sur-mer a Plateau de fruits de mer(about 18€). No melted butter for your lobster provided here, but the most divine seasoned mayonnaise. Miam!

Bringing your own bib is not a bad idea. Or wear old clothes. Bring your own baguette and drinks, water etc. Everyone does. Bread is not served FYI.

Time to tuck in. All hands on deck! Making a mess is de rigueur.

Trouville's lovely harbor. Note les Halles in the background. You can't miss it.

I hope you're tempted to take a short trip outside Paris. I can't wait to go back! Thanks for reading Parisbreakfast! 

If you liked this post please support it by buying my Paris letters and watercolors. Or pass on some one you think might enjoy it.