Sunday, August 22, 2021

Maison de Victor Hugo, Place des Vosges


Yesterday I went back to Place des Vosges. Its been a long time.

Yet its always pleasantly the same. For centuries even.

There was an exhibition of small ink drawings at Maison Victor Hugo I was eager to see. So were other Parisians and tourists to my surprise. 

These drawings are a well-kept secret you could say. Mostly only other artists know that Hugo was a master draftsman besides being the author of Les Miserables.

They are tiny. Some only 3-4” in width. Yet such detailed. Such emotion.

Drawn ✏️ with great vigor always in black ink. Some have the density of Japanese ink drawings. Hugo loved to draw castles on mountains surrounded by mist or ‘sfumato’ as the Italians call it. 

The top floor are the Hugo’s apartment rented from 1832 to 1848 at 6, Place des Vosges. Its full of his collections and art objects.

The ‘Chinese Lounge’ panels were painted by Hugo.
I was so dazzled I forgot to focus.

The Gothic dining room has William Morris wallpaper and drapes.

Hugo designed the rooms and furnishings, often buying a desk or armoire, taking it apart and making it into something else.

Don’t forget to look out the windows. The view of the park is spectacular.

The deep Burgundy bedroom was intriguing. I knew I wanted to paint that velvet chair…I’m in my ‘chair period’ this summer.

There is a brand new courtyard cafe at the museum as well as one indoors. It seems all the museums are adding charming cafes.

The excellent Maison Mulot is in charge of desserts.
I resisted, thinking I better do a comparative analysis at tea salon Carette on the other side of the square.

In the end I got a plain vanilla ice cream elsewhere.

The Place des Vosges in the Marais is a lovely must-do to add to your trip list.
I was so enthralled with the idea of painting Hugo’s red velvet chair, I completely missed his innovative standing desk to the left of it. Go figure. Thank you for reading Parisbreakfast.  If you'd like to receive Paris letters 💌 and maps 🗺 in your mailbox 📮, do visit my Etsy shop.  Bisou bisou 🐻💋🇫🇷


sukicart said...

Today's blog almost made me cry from home(Paris)sickness. The first photo is one of the streets we walked down almost every day during our visits as our apt was only a block away and we often visited Carette for a drink. I am excited to revisit the Maison de Victor Hugo as it's been over 20 years and I hardly remember it. Love the aquarelle of the chair which, in the photo, looks like no one ever sat in it. Thank you for todays moment in Paris, Carol, and hugs to you and Bear.

Ga From Dekalb said...

Carol, your post today brought back many fond memories. Amazing but I never visited the Madison de Victor Hugo. I also did not know about his hidden talent. How wonderful that you were able to see those drawings.
I want you to know that I appreciate you…you take us to where we long to be…Paris.

Parisbreakfasts said...

Awww..SUKI, I’m so glad that street meant so much to you!
I usually enter through the Hotel du Sully.

GA you would definitely love the Maison Victor Hugo - its one of Paris small secret museums…a real treasure!

the zen zone said...

Thank you once again for educating me. Your post led me to other sites with more info about the Place. But, I couldn't find out who actually owns the square. Is it the city? I did read about one of the
residents, with photos of his apartment.

Bonnie L said...

Ohhh…the places you go, Carol. So interesting! Adding Maison Victor Hugo to my Paris must-visit list…also, that serene courtyard café. Delightful watercolor of Hugo’s red velvet chair…with a book!…Les Misérables perhaps??

Thilda said...

So interesting to see Victor Hugo's apartment!

Jane Gabon said...

Yes, I want to add this to my bucket list (although his home is a bit tchachkdik). Despite all the warnings, I still want to come to Paris. But I don’t want everything to be shut down!

K in Australia said...

Reading your Paris Blogs is a real highlight of my day.

Jeanie said...

Rick is such a big Victor Hugo fan that this was near the top of his list of places to visit on our first trip to Paris together. I was so glad. I was fascinated by his apartments -- and I know what you mean about the panels in the Chinese room. They have some of his art always but to see an exhibit of his designs and work would be fabulous. The audio tour was great, too. The cafe wasn't open when we were there. Pity. It looks divine!

La Table De Nana said...

I know you love that place so much..How interesting the mat work around one of his small masterpieces.

Barbara said...

Bonjour! I was missing you in my Inbox and went to Facebook to find your lovely photos and sketches. I haven't had anything from you since the last "" newsletter from August 5. I will go and subscribe to this blogspot link - so happy to have solved the mystery! I am enjoying getting caught up with you! xxoo

The Empress said...

Bon jour -
The splendid Audrey map just arrived. What fun! Your picture of her is masterful.

Parisbreakfasts said...

BARBARA, could you email me so I can let know please