Paris Signs of Automne

Do you think a hotdog is a Fall food? The way the French make it, loaded with Emmanthal cheese it could very well be. Since I came to France I've hankered for these cholesterol queens. Called 'La Hotdog Parisienne' according to Jill of Mad about Macarons. She said I must only eat them where is says 'Fait Maison' (made in house). By the way I don't think I quite captured the French hotdog here..

I was passing boulangerie Secco yesterday and noticed a sign, 'Everything made in house'. Ah ha. Then I noticed they have la Hotdog Parisienne. Time to indulge. Let's face it. When isn't it time to indulge in Paris?

Secco's tarte au pomme is one of the best in the city if not the whole planet, so how bad could their hotdog be? Their tarte took top honors in 750 grs Magazine by the way.

Eric Kayser has his Fall fruit tarts out - the unpronounceable quetches et poire.

La Grand Epicerie is big on figs. The sales woman actually wiggled her finger in front of my lense but she wasn't fast enough. Who does that anymore? Gimmeabreak.

Figs are big in the marché right now. That's how you know it's Fall.

Sunday morning I put on my bathing suit with big plans to hit the pool. It's been a long time.

Instead I turned towards the Bastille and walked 10 minutes to the marché. It's been too long. Yet it's always refreshing, like a shot in the arm (whatever that is?).

The Fall moules from Mont St. Michel are back. I got a kilo (4,50) and they threw in a bunch of parsley gratis. The market wine guy from Burgundy sold and opened a bottle of blanc sec (3,50) for me. All I needed was some onions and garlic for my Sunday lunch. Oh and an olive baguette. Pas mal.
 

Naturally I've been thinking about what to do for the November sketch letter. I'm developing the PB Sounding Board. If you want to put in your 2 cents let me know.

Perfect complimentary colors orange and blue. Those market venders could probably paint.

French Girl suggested I paint potiron and pumpkins for a Thanksgiving theme but bells were not going off for me.

Don't these leaves look like they came straight from Vermont? Nothing like em in Paris.

Then French Girl suggested I paint chestnuts (marrons) instead.

My guy showed me how to cut and roast them. All the venders seem like they are my guys in the market.

Of course chestnuts or marrons are also used to make a Mont Blanc. Research materials this weekend for sketching. Hint hint

You can still get a jar of pear(poire) jam watercolor if you subscribe to the Paris Sketch letters before the November letter comes out. i do not plan to be late this time..ahem.

Fête des Vendanges Montmartre

My first time visiting the annual October Fête des Vendanges Montmartre, Paris' 3rd largest festival. What was I waiting for?

A tiny vineyard up in the18th arrondissement on rue des Saules, Clos Montmartre, the only one in Paris producing wine since the 4th century.

The fete goes on goes on for 5 days with a presentation on the big weekend, a festive parade Saturday afternoon, a grand degustation (tasting) purveyors from all corners of France's hexagon sell sausages, charcuterie, oysters, honey, cheese and more for Friday through Sunday. Plus art exhibits, lectures, cooking classes, performances, contests, concerts.

All manner of confrerie (brotherhoods of local wine and dining societies) dress up in their velvet robes, banners, coats of arms, sing, dance, beat the drums. 

I managed to get inside the vineyard itself for the Ban des Vendages, where the maire of the 18th and other locals of note gather, sing, drum.

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Of course there's a queen of the Montmartre harvest every year. Movie actress Sandrine Bonaire was honorary guest along with renown poet-singer Jacques Higelin.

The back of the head of poet-singer Higelin..next year I'll do better.

What to wear to this event? If only I'd known.

If you're not a member of a Confrerie and garbed in Medieval dress, come in black and red like singer Aristide Bruant as Toulouse-Lautrec painted him like members of Republique de Montmartre. 

Next year I'll know better.

After the Saturday morning ceremony the feasting begins.

"Les Parcours du Gout" (journey of taste) from 10 am till 11 pm Friday - Sunday, followed by evening fireworks on Saturday night at Sacre Coeur.

Masses of Merguese sausages grilling to feed the masses of people. The Montmartre Vendanges is comparable to the Munich Oktoberfest in Germany on a smaller scale.

Gorgeous hams from Corsica, Basque, you name it.
*Buy the ham, not the ham sandwich (sandwiche jambon) for 5-6 euros. Only ONE slice within and no beurre, no nuttin'. There are far better choices. I learned the hard way.

A wide variety of wines to be tasted in tents set up around the butte (hill) Montmartre. *Bringing your own glass is not a bad idea.

Reclette is standard fare at these outdoor affairs.

*Better save yourself for regional specialties like the truffled omelette from the Sud-Ouest(7 euros). I should have...next year.

Or the freshly shucked oysters from Cancale, Brittany for a 10er. Wonderfully fresh and a major bargain in Paris.

Two plateaux around Sacre Coeur double-sided with French regional tasting. Quite an undertaking but so much fun. People picnic on the steps with goodies from the tasting. Who knew right in the heart of Paris? I wish I'd stayed for the evening fireworks. Next year.

Sonia Delaunay, les couleurs d’Abstraction, MAM

Trying to paint a geometric 'Sonia Delaunay' watercolor is not so easy.

Everyone asks what's on in Paris  My secret: posters in the Metro. I shoot & stash photos on my ipad. I noticed the Delaunay show was opening the 17th at the Musee d'art Moderne. I ran 🏃‍♂️over the day before and caught the press preview. I was lucky 🍀 

This is a huge and beautiful retrospective.

Delaunay lived to be 96 and never stopped producing art.

Her husband, Robert Delaunay, is perhaps more famous and that's her doing.

He died at the beginning of the Second World War in 1941. She promoted his paintings assiduously,

Continuing to work in a multitude of mediums including fabrics, home furnishing, fashion.

I don't know if Delaunay turned her hand to kitchen design (cuisine). If you want a break mid-show, go to Smack in the Palais de Tokyo - my favorite quick lunch places in the 16th on Avenue President Wilson. Healthy, yummy, reasonable.

Delaunay was a prolific fashion designer first herself. And then, because of demand, for others.

Her gouache sketches are simply wonderful.

Her designs were perfect for the theatre & dance - brilliant colors and graphic geometric patterns

This is a don't-miss show . You will leave inspired.

More geometry and bright colors 

These might well be the perfect colors to wear to the Delaunay show.

Printemps has lit up the entire store.

I was turned upside down by the jazzy bright colors.

Don't miss the jazzy religeuses at Cafe Pouchkine inside Printemps.

Witty fabric patterns. 

There's a new accessory floor (the 4th) and LE SNEAKER is the IT shoe.

Downstairs crazy patterns from Kenzo and cupcakes from a Sugar Daze pop-up shop. Or get your geometric kick (licorice Allsorts) in a red-striped bag at the outdoor stall at Metro Odeon.

I’m Carol Gillott, an artist living in Paris. Every month I send out beautifully illustrated letters that capture the true Parisian experience. 

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Thanks for reading PB ❤️

 ❤️ Thank you so much!