Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn, Paolo Roversi

 

Thursday was a double-header. 

I hit 2 fashion photography shows in 1 day.

1997 Fashion Big Bang, Palais Galliera

 

Where were you in 1997? I was laid up with a fractured ankle in Astoria. I’d fallen on a footpath in Montepulciano. I remember the adorable doctore in Florence hospitale who either put on or took off my cast. I remember the snazzy red wheelchair in the Milano airport bypassing customs when heading home. I remember being stuck inside reading New Yorker magazines on the couch, waiting for my ankle to heal and looking out the window with longing at the corner candy store. TMI

Meanwhile in 1997 in Paris, the ‘Big Bang’ was going on. A plethora of 38 important designers were taking the helm in various haute couture houses

Love Brings Love, Homage à Alber Elbaz, Palais Galliera

SortiraParis

Its been really hard to post post this week, but this invasion is not going away. On Friday I saw a preview at Palais Galliera ,an homage to brilliant designer, Alber Elbaz that had me in tears. We lost Alber Elbaz last year in April to Covid.

Last October, Paris Fashion Week closed with a tribute to the late Alber Elbaz,

Organized by AZ Factory, his last company. The show invited 44 of the greatest designers to create a silhouette inspired by his work. 

Palais Galleria transformed this show into an exhibition.

A one-of-a-kind exhibit of extravagant dresses with long trains, ruffles, big bows and dresses printed with Alber’s inimitable image.

“I had a dream to to make a dress, just a simple dress, that can hug a woman. A dress that will hold a woman when you need it.” Alber Elbaz

Some background notes: Albaz was born in Casablanca, Morocco and grew up and studied art and engineering in Israel. 

In 1987 (age 27) he moved to New York with $800 in his pocket. He began his career designing wedding dresses. 

After months of trying to get an interview with Geoffrey Beene, they met and he was hired in 10 minutes. They worked together for 7 years, Till Elbaz moved to Paris in 1996 to design the Guy Laroche collection. 

In 2001 he became creative director at Lanvin, where he worked for 14 years. In January of 2021 he formed a new company, AZ Factory, which is still producing today. 

You can watch the actual runway show here. Those are falling red hearts ❤️

I was inspired to sketch those gorgeous pieces. 

The Palais Galliera exhibit is on till July 10, 2022 so you can still catch it. 

❤️Bon Dimanche PBers❤️

#StandWithUkraine Doctors Without Borders🙏🙏🙏

Jeanne Lanvin, Palais Galliera

Today was the press preview for the new and wonderful Jeanne Lanvin exhibit opening this Sunday at the Palais Galliera. Who hasn't seen the iconic perfume logo of Lanvin Arpege...actually Jeanne and her daughter Marguerite, designed by Paul Iribe.

The first gown of the show as you enter is endless repeated pleats contrasted with a huge black taffeta bow, displayed perfectly with mirrors so you don't miss any details.

Another room with mirrors.

Original sketches/prints of the day (20s-30s) illustrating the dresses.

What drove me nuts were divine black robe du soir (evening dresses) shown against dull black felt backgrounds. I'm thinking if only I could say something to fabulous Lanvin designer, Alber Elbaz  and assistant curator of the exhibit, how wrong this is.

Course no one else seemed to mind about the black backgrounds.

Then in waltzes Monsieur Elbaz, giving US Vogue Magazine editor and chief Anna Wintour a private tour of the exhibit! Well it is Fashion Week.

Her helmet-hair is utter perfection at all times. And how appropo to wear a red-belted coat?

Voila.

Needless to say I didn't complain to Alber about the black backgrounds. All the wall placards, in both French and English are at eye-level btw.

Lanvin's dresses are swoon-worthy.

Dreamy wedding gowns.

All very soigne whatever that is...

Sumptuous embroideries.

A wall quote particularly fitting from Dior:
'World War II was looming, but the summer of 1939 saw haute couture in one of it's most glittering phases. Romantic evening gowns, ample and diaphanous, were an 'invitation to the waltz,' Christian Dior recalled. 'People flitted from ball to ball... Dreading the inevitable cataclysm, they hoped desperately to avoid it; and whatever happened, they wanted to go out in style.'

These beaded daisies were an homage to Lanvin's daughter, Marguerite(Daisy), her muse and source of inspiration. “The little gowns [Lanvin] designed for her own ‘petite,’ ” Vogue explained, “were so fetching that admiring mammas who saw them insisted on the same models for their own little daughters. Soon the elder sisters followed, then the mammas themselves.”

Jeanne Lanvin began her career designing hats? The gowns came in 1908.

Photos from Lanvin's atelier are fascinating.

Lanvin exudes elegance and sophistication.

Paris was almost Spring-like today. I wish I hadn't worn my puffy coat. Of course the Fashion Week types were dressed to the nines.
Don't miss the Jeanne Lanvin exhibit if you're coming to Paris!
Or you can browse the 150+ photos I took on Flickr.
Bon Weekend!

Alaia at Palais Galliera

With the onset of the new year, comes the reminder many exhibits are about to close. You feel compelled to race around town and catch them before the curtain falls. Yesterday I dashed over to the Azzedine Alaia exhibition at Palais Galliera. The museum of mode was closed for renovation for a long time and just recently opened for this show.

The displays inside are madly dark. Still the designs have a lovely organic flow inherent in all Alaia gowns.

They reminded of an orchid.

And the classical statues perched outside the museum.

Alaia is a unique genius 

His tailoring lines are just as elegant and simplified

As the Doric columns outside.

Really it's the perfect setting for his creations.

Sadly Very few of us have the essential perfect bods to fit into these artworks except for this lean gallery-goer.

It's brought home loud and clear.

Most of us don't have a snowball's chance in Hell of fitting into an Alaia 

Why are the explanatory cards placed at toe-level 🦶 Why? True they might destroy the lines of the display. Seeing people squatting down to read is disturbing, not to mention having to do so oneself.

Outside the show poster reflects an eerie quality to the light.

The Palais Galliera is not far from the Eiffel Tower.

Perfume bottles later remind of what is not to be...especially if you just made a delish tarte tatin with La Ratte . If you want me to do a step-by-step post let me know in the comments! I wish it was prettier but taste is what counts no?