Lions of Venice

Along with the multitude of artichokes, gelaterias, and bridges in Venice, you can hardly walk two steps without bumping into a Lion.

The winged lion is Venice's symbol or mascot, since the remains of San Marco, the Evangelist, were stolen from a tomb in Alexandria, Egypt, and brought there in 828 AD. Vitorio Capaccio painted this lion in 1516. The lion is usually depicted with its paw on an book inscribed with the Latin motto goes: Pax tibi Marce, evangelista meus.
Aka: Peace be with you Mark, my evangelist.
Being Mark the patron Saint of Venice.

This lion guards the Accademia bridge.

Another lion protecting the courtyard at La Fenice opera house.

Each of the arcades of Piazza San Marco have different lions heads. Fortunately not all are roaring at once.

Caffe Florian in San Marco sprinkles lion heads over it's china, napkins, and sugars. I know. I saved the sugar packets.

If a Venetian house has a door knocker, it's likely to be a lions head.

You can follow suit and bring home a lion knocker or doorbell.

Or a winged paper weight. I did not see any Lion masks. Did you?

For a while Venetians kept live lions in their gardens in the 16th century. For a longer while there were thousands of cats, but they were removed to a shelter on the Lido. This Fu dog (Lion of Buddha) is the most current lion to reside in Venice.

Venetians had a penchant for Rhinos as well, illustrated in this Pietro Longhi painting. You do still see a few. There was one on my street corner, fortunately in bronze. Donna Leon has yet to take up Venice's lion in her mystery books, but I've only read four.
The Venetian lion must be a good cell conductor. "Can you hear me now?" This one is lounging in Piazza Mani.

BONJOUR LIONS OF VENICE!

The Bridges of Venice

It's impossible to visit Venice. And not walk over a bridge. In fact there's some controversy over exactly HOW MANY BRIDGES THERE ARE IN VENICE?
Some say,

"Venezia è costruita su 117 piccole isole e ha 150 canali e 409 ponti"

Or...

"Venice has 117 small islands, 150 channels and 409 bridges"

Whilst others proclaim,

Venice has 117 islands connected by 378 bridges.

Whatever. You're bound to walk over quite a few if not all of them.

Looking at these photos I'm a bit sorry I didn't spring for a gondola just for a different perspective from leaning over bridges.

Certainly you'll need a good 'cuppa' before venturing over the bridges.

Though I wouldn't venture out it these shoes.

Nor even these gorgeous Italian numbers...

Remember the steps are very wide.

So workers can cart everything under the sun over those bridges. How else will you get your pane e tulipani?
I hope you enjoyed this little escape from reality. I did.

BUON GIORNO PONTI di VENEZIA

Death At La Fenice

BEAR insisted we take a tour of Venice's opera house, Teatro La Feniche...
Since he was on page 1 of Donna Leon's 1st of the Commisario Brunetti series, Death at La Feniche.
(NO spoilers included.)
Conveniently the same opera in the book, Verdi's Traviata sung by Donna Leon's tempermental diva (and possible murder suspect) Donna Flavia, was featured on the walls...
La Feniche is appropriately named after the phoenix (a reference to the mythological creature reborn from its ashes after it's destroyed). The opera house has risen from ashes many times since 1789. As recently as 1996, recorded in detail by John Berendt in The City of Falling Angels.

You and your audio guide enter the grand hallway leading...

Into the very grand theatre...

Ah...to sit in one of those boxes...

Or the gold-encrusted royal box in your diamond-encrusted stillettos...

Nevermind. Just sit in one of these cushy velvet chairs. You can do that on the tour. Then pretend you're hearing Traviata...

Leon's first book in the series was conceived in backstage at a performance whilst chatting with the conductor and published in 1992. She's produced a book every year since. I must say the first book is quite consistent with the others I've read. Very character-driven and always you experience everything through Brunetti's sharp eyes and ears. You climb all the steps with him too in elevator-free Venice...

At least I did get to Gelateria Nico mentioned in the book on the Fondamente Zattare waterfront. Why do I always get pistache + nocciola/hazelnut flavors? I have no imagination when it comes to gelato...

I did not get to the pricey Ristorante Galleggiante in Bacino San Marco, where every course is described in the book and the order in which it was served. For example salad must be eaten after the meal, not with it.

I did get to have a pricy seafood antipasti elsewhere. But who knew it must be served on an oblong plate? If I'd read my Brunetti I'd have known. Plus who knew the vaporetto don't run in the fog? At Caffe Paolin, only the foreigners eat outside in bad weather. The sensible Venetians retreat inside. I love all these little details of everyday life in Leon's books almost more than solving the mystery. My copy is a mess of yellow markings...

There's a terrific interactive map on Leon's British site for browsing excerpts related to various Venice locations... Now I'm on to Blood From A Stone...

BON APPETITO LA FENICHE!

The Artichokes of Venice

Visiting Venice's Rialto mercato is a must-do... Especially if you adore artichokes... Excuse me, 'carciofi'. These mini versions are 'carciofini' in season only in March... A must-eat wherever you go

In Bologna at Tamburini could I resist this salad of artichoke hearts, prosciutto and rocket?

And though my tray was bursting (Tamburini is self-service)

Could I resist the grilled artichokes? Someone is a greedy guts.

Look! An Italian hound is straining at the leash to chomp on those artichokes across the way. Ah a kindred spirit...

An exquisite bit of Fortuny velvet from Venetia Studium would be perfecto to carry your artichoke around in would it not?

Artichokes turn up hither and thither in still life paintings though I've yet to try my hand at them...

They turn up aplenty in Donna Leon's, Brunetti's Cookbook, including snippets from her mystery novels. You can hear her mention artichokes right off the bat in this BBC interview.

I always have a slew of artichokes in the fridge. Simply cut off the tops a bit and the bottom of course, sprinkle with lemon juice and some lemon zest using my much adored new microplane. Then nuke one at a time for 3 1/2 - 4+ minutes depending on the size. Simple but delightful when you're addicted to artichokes.
BUON GIORNO ARTICHOKES of VENEZIA!