Wednesday, August 26, 2015

The Paris Map Diet

I went on the PMD back in May so begin your Paris Map Diet with Baba au rhum as a starter
At Maison Stohrer. By the way you can eat your Baba any time of the day. NO time restrictions on this diet.
L'escargot are a must for lunch and do not miss one iota of buttery sauce please.
The toast points will reach into every nook and cranny of those darling little shells. 
A fabulous deal on rue Montorgueil of 5 different hunks of cheeses for a mere 9€
At Fromagerie La Fermette No. 86.
There appear to be dozens of cafes on this long pedestrian street.
Frankly I couldn't tell the difference one from the other.
I will say my lunch of 'Roman' tartine at Café du Central was amble enough to feed a party of four.
Moving right along, there must be 5-6 places to buy ice cream on rue Montorgueil (an essential ingredient on the PMD).
I tried Charles Chocolatier though they are especially renown for their fab hot chocolate a l'ancienne served from a copper pot in winter.
When I see the two words citron + framboise offered together in the same cone I can not simply walk on by.
How did I miss this 'Petal Rose' ice cream?
Or fruit de la passion?
Since I started drawing the PARIS MAPS there has been some serious belt loosening.
It seems required to research and taste the 'fruits' of my labors even if my scale doesn't like it.
These two French girls are NOT on the Paris Map Diet obviously.
They get their 'glace'/glasses at this street cart selling fancy lunettes/glasses.
This Frenchie IS on the PARIS MAP DIET with her heaping cup of gelato from Grom. Plus she's training future PMD converts.
As Oscar Wilde said, 
"The only way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it...I can resist everything but temptation" 
And there is no better place to start than on rue Montorgueil.

Sunday, August 23, 2015

Saint Eustache, l'Escargot, map rue Montorgueil WIP

Saint Eustache is a late Gothic cathedral (1300-1500) at the apex of rue Montmartre and rue Montorgueil.
The height and space are simply mind blowing.
By the way there are free Sunday organ concerts from 5:30 -  6:00 pm.
There are so many gorgeous churches to discover in Paris.
Do you have a favorite church I should visit?
FYI the big round windows are called 'rose' because of the circular rose petal pattern (this one is Notre Dame).
When you come up out of Metro Les Halles at exit Rambeauteau, Saint Eustache awaits. Don't miss it.
Some PBers have asked about proper cathedral dress code. Bathing suits and flip flops are out. Scooters are IN.
Turn left up rue Montmartre on Thursdays/Sundays for an outdoor morning marché Saint Eustache.
Or turn left onto rue Montorgueil to find L'Escargot and the best snails in the city in four different flavors (curry, roquefort, traditional butter, parsley and garlic).
A lovely 19th century interior.
I walked in early with no reservation and ordered the formule for 17,50.
If you're going to draw escargot, you've got to eat them. They are delicious. Mostly garlicy, buttery, parsleyed sauce on toast points or 'soldiers'.
Ooops I forgot to show the snails!
Moving right along on the August map - my printshop opens tomorrow after their summer vacation. I'll be burning the midnight oil tonight.
Have you hung any of your
Paris Maps on the wall?
Take a photo and EMAIL IT TO ME.
I'll post them on the blog.
Tell me your favorite churches PBers and I'll visit.
Cheers from rainy Paris!

Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Breakfast at Notre Dame and rue Montorgueil Map WIP

Bear has been moaning why haven't we visited Notre Dame properly what with all these day trips out of town off to Reims and Chartres?
After giving it some thought I decided he had a point.
Breakfast at Notre Dame requires a croissant amandes (not eaten inside the cathedral s'il vous plait).
Visiting Notre Dame super early will serve you well. We left the house at 8 AM.
And had the place almost to ourselves.
Lovely peace and quiet.
An hour later, not so lovely.
Still, when you look up, the selfies are obliterated.
The north rose window is spectacular, the finest of Notre Dame's three rose windows.
Building work began way back in the 12th century and it was not until some 300 years later construction finally came to an end.
An adorable mini Notre Dame Limoge box in the gift shop.
For the artistically-inclined - a mini porcelain easel and palette.
Perfect for this visiting artiste sketching on the bridge.
Notre Dame is completely accessible when you go early and you can avoid the crowds.
If like me, you're becoming obsessed with Medieval France and Gothic architecture, this is the book. It's hard to find here in English (unless you go to Amiens evidently). Principles and Elements of Medieval Church Architecture in Western Europe< is a short(only 40 pages), yet tall book full of detailed, excellent diagrams. I'm hoping for my copy arrives soon. It was outside the door and chocked full of interesting stuff like 'A theology of light' - how architects controlled the streams of light entering the space. An amazing book.
By the way did you know gargoyles, the drainage system that line Notre Dame's roof, got their name because of the gargling noise made by the water draining.
On to my work-in-progress, the Paris Map drawing for rue Montorgueil.
Maison Stohrer (founded in 1730) at No. 51 is la creme de la cream of the street and the centerpiece of my next map.
Stohrer invented the heavenly baba au rhum. I had to munch down a few to find the inner essence of the street. I've included in the map: Charles Chocolat, La Fermette fromagerie, Cafe Montorgueil and Mariage Freres (a newcomer but it's a lovely shade of yellow like Stohrer).
Do you have some favorite places on rue Montorgueil to share?
Do tell SVP.