Sunday, January 22, 2023

La Fete de la Coquille à Montmartre


Here’s what I ate at La fete de la Coquille St. Jacques at Abbesses in Montmartre yesterday. First of all the Fete is still on today till 7pm/19:00 And the metro Abbesses elevator is working 🤸🏾‍♀️🥂🎉 So go!

1. 1/2 dozen oysters (8€) The huîtres 🦪 are from Brittany

Everything at the fair is from Brittany, from Côtes d’Armor.
2. 1 small bowl of fish soup (3€ - a liter bottle is 3,50€)
I brought home 2 bottles of this delicious soup. I always regret it if I don’t. 
3. A cup of hot spiced apple juice (4€ - I could have bought a whole bottle for 5€). The soup bottles were already too heavy.
These small bowls of garlicky ‘vrai’ Champignon de Paris with sautéed onions and the escargot smelled and looked delicious but at 15€ !? No way. Too high-end for this annual street fair in my opinion.
I passed on the classic Kouign amann too. 
You used to be able to buy an individual size. Now they were only selling big ones or a brochette of 6 for 6€.
Meanwhile Arte on Youtube is showing January detox documentaries on excessive sugar (all made in the US) = not conducive to sugar-loading. 
Maybe if they still had that cute individual size. I am so glad they did not 👏👍🙏
4.some roasted chestnuts (5€ size). 
Aren’t chestnuts good for you? YES! 👍🤸🏾‍♀️
Brittany caramel aux beurre salé. It’s not always easy 
To find something healthy to eat at a French regional food fair. You could get a Brittany crepe with a sausage inside, a galette-saucisse is a classic dish.
Everyone was eating scallop brochettes…
But French long lines are daunting. Always daunting. I still have not conquered this cultural demon. Emily in Paris never gets on a line in the series - that’s how you know it isn’t reflective of Paris in the least.
I usually buy the scallops ready to cook in the box, or in the shell but not this time.
Wine, Champagne is always 
Flowing. And Breton bière and cidre.
Brittany bagpipes and drums keep everything jolly
Later I walked up the hill on rue Ravignan to patisserie Gilles Marchal 
To buy 5. 2 small madeleines. Arte would not approve 👎 
Then I walked up and down rue des Trois Frères 
This is Amelie ville.
A new no-name gluten-free boulangerie has these irresistible Gustave Eiffel fèves in the window on rue des Trois Frères just across from Amelie’s grocery store. I bought 2 (3,50€ each!). True they are for this year, 2023. True they are even cheaper on eBay, but sometimes impulsivity rules the day🥂🍾 OK everyday
I have a special love for Gustave Eiffel. We’re celebrating the date of his death (1832-1923) this year. The French are always celebrating some anniversary or other. Goodby Proust. Hello Gustave.
Did you know that, along with his 1001 flavors of madeleines, Gilles Marchal has iconic Eiffel Tower and Sacre Cœur cookies? It’s true.
I hope you enjoyed this petite excursion to Montmartre. Please share Parisbreakfast with friends. Do visit my Etsy shop. Many Paris gifts 🎁 and treasures to be found. 
                 💋🎈❤️Bonne Sunday PBers❤️🎈💋


  1. Anonymous2:48 AM

    You need a shopping cart with wheels

    1. Anonymous3:48 AM

      OMG I do, I do need a granny cart. It would be terrific for the marché near by…not so great up in Montmartre or on the Metro me thinks. People with carts also seem to have cars 🚗 🤔

  2. Anonymous3:43 AM

    Thanks for sharing Paris. I used to visit every autumn for a month or more. Age has gotten in the way. My mind is crisp so I get my Paris in books, your blog, and my many photos. I miss the magic of wandering the streets and sitting a small park with a bagette.

  3. Anonymous3:47 AM

    Great post, as always, Carol! Makes me want to go for the fish soup & oysters! Rosemary

    1. Anonymous3:49 AM

      You should Rosemary! Don’t hesitate. You’re buying directly from the producteur. It doesn’t get better than this. I would go back but Maison Objet is calling.

  4. Anonymous3:50 AM

    Oysters for breakfast with Champagne! 🍾 They are open now !

  5. I love that area of Paris. How wonderful to be able to indulge in the delicacies of the street fair. I would have had the scallop brochette and a kougn amann brochette. I don’t know what it tastes like but looks like it would fit the bill for my sweet tooth.🗼❤️

  6. Anonymous8:31 AM

    Love your blog, finally going to visit Paris for the first time April 16-24. Hope there will be some special celebrations. Barbara

    1. Anonymous9:33 AM

      Good for you Barbara🥂 April is a great month to visit 👏👏👏

  7. Yes on scallops..chestnuts..champignons..madeleines..That box cover looks like your art.Non non non on oysters:)My fave spot..Montmartre.And rue Cler;)My infatuation with Paris at one time led to cookie cutters and choco biscuits cutters I should make more..Les fèves..which did you cute.

    1. Anonymous9:32 AM

      I got the Eiffel tower feve on its own and Gustave clinging/clutching the Eiffel tower. It was hard to choose !

  8. Anonymous9:30 AM

    ok.... turn over the scallops and no one gets hurt!! Normajean

  9. Anonymous9:34 AM

    Love that Montmartre stairway view. So iconic. Is there another town like Montmartre? GD

  10. Anonymous10:35 AM

    Thank you for sharing so much of Paris with us!

  11. Anonymous11:31 AM

    I just love your posts! Thank you! Mary

  12. Anonymous11:42 AM

    Montmartre may just be my favorite area of Paris. I stay on Rue Aristide Bruant (featured in a great poster by Toulouse-Lautrec) and enjoy exploring the little sidestreets. Found a fun chocolate shop in November with a fabulous display of chocolate sculptures of Notre Dame, Arche de Triomphe, a gargoyle, boats and a saxophone.

    1. Anonymous12:39 PM

      I’ve never seen that chocolate shop…

  13. Anonymous12:39 PM

    Thank you for Montmartre.
    Time for breakfast in California Kirk

  14. Anonymous2:51 PM

    I can't thank yo enough for sharing your sojourn up to Montmartre. My younger brother and I used to spend a lot of time there after our parents moved us to Paris. It was one of our favorite hang-outs as teenagers. He passed away less a year ago, so every memory has become even more precious to me.

    1. Anonymous2:09 AM

      Sorry to hear. Montmartre is perfect for kids. It hasn’t changed as much as the rest of Paris. Thank Gof the chains (Chanel, LV, etc.) have not moved it. Still very much ‘Old Paris’ 👍

  15. I remember you posting about this lively wintertime faire before. What fun in January! I’d happily stand in line for the scallops but then even standing in line is entertaining when you are just a tourist! Thanks for taking me on a little visit to the mont!

  16. Bonnie L7:31 PM

    Kouign Amann! Oysters! Those fèves❣️

  17. Anonymous10:28 PM

    You had to walk up the hill for the cookies, that should count:

    1. Anonymous2:12 AM

      I’m not sure I did enough hill-climbing to cancel the cookies…and I didn’t mention the slice of flan…which I shared with my neighbor. It was, sadly, not as good as our locale flan from Boulanger de la Tour! 😳

  18. Thanks for taking us to Montmartre with you! I would be into the cider and madelines, as a vegetarian you take what you get and that cake looks really big. Never heard of the sausage in a crepe though, interesting.
    Here in my city of Adelaide we line up very well for the bus and probably pretty well at outdoor food events too. Not usually that cold though!
    I have a wheely basket trolley I take to the markets here each weekend, but we are a flat city and it's only 15 minutes walk and no stairs to get up when we reach home.
    I love the impulse purchase of the Gustave Eiffel fever, enjoy!

    1. Anonymous2:04 AM

      Not even fruits du mer Kirra 😳 But eggs & milk are OK?
      Not easy in France !

  19. Anonymous1:59 AM

    I would be all over the place getting those pastries. OMG I would go crazy. Crazy. This was fun. Lynne

  20. Thanks for this lovely excursion to Montmartre during this St Jacques fête ! I remember we went there together once in 2015 <3 Sad I couldn't join this time as I'm in Italy but hopefully I will be there next year. In the meanwhile I'm enjoying your photos fro your visit there...what a treat! And so fun! Love scallops!

  21. Madeleines really are the best. I make good ones but I bet I could take more than a few lessons from GM! I need an Eiffel Tower cookie cutter!

  22. Anonymous11:24 AM

    All of the food looks delicious- It would have been necessary to roll me down the hill after that one as they are all the things I love.


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