Friday, August 19, 2022

The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli/ Musee des Arts Decoratifs

 

Another late night at the museum.
 MAD/musee des arts decoratifs is open Thursdays till 9. And another spectacular don’t-miss exhibition is on in Paris till January 22.

The first room you enter is covered, including the floor you’re standing on with her fashion sketches. The ceiling is mirrored, so you’re inside a box 📦 of drawings ✏️ Designer Elsa Schiaparelli made a donation in 1973 of over 6000 drawings in bound albums.


                                                                Photo c/of MAD
Then you enter the dark. Flashlights were not provided. I nearly fell over a raised platform
I was so dazzled by the glittering outfits. 

There is a lot of sparkle plenty to Elsa Schiaparelli
 (1890 - 1973). I wrote about the Met show in 2012 but this show has much more depth and is more expansive.
Schiaparelli was 
one of the leading designers of the 1920s - 1930s with a flair for the witty, fantasical and the Surreal. 
Here drawn superbly by Jean Cocteau, she was first designer to use shoulder pads, animal prints 
And she created the first perfume bottles as art pieces and was the inventor of the perfume shocking pink
She collaborated with artists including jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti, Christian Berard and 
With Salvador Dali to create the Dali Lobsters dress and famous shoe hat. Her witty creations during a time of depression helped raise spirits and caused great jealousy from Coco Chanel.
There are 
520 works including 272 costumes and fashion accessories, 248 paintings, sculptures, jewelry, perfume bottles, ceramics, posters in the exhibition.
And collaborations with the most famous artists of her time, from Man Ray, Salvador Dali
Jean Cocteau to Meret Oppenheim and Picasso. 
After assisting Paul Poirot, In 1927, Schiaparelli 
presented her first collection of sweaters decorated with trompe-l'oeil knots that made her name known in la mode (designs later to be copied by Sonia Rykiel)
Interesting that 
In 1947 Elsa hired Hubert de Givenchy, then 19, to be her first assistant later making him artistic director of the shop. 
Every new collection had a specific theme, like butterflies here, often the result of a collaboration with a particular artist. 
In 1954 the house closed. 
But the tradition lives on with new American artistic director, Daniel Roseberry at Maison Schiaparelli since 2019 at 21, Place Vendôme. 
This exhibit is an enormous chunk of French fashion and art history well worth visiting, especially if you visit Thursday night when less crowded. Listen to Stella Jang while you dream of glittering Paris. 
Thanks for all your great post ideas and for showing up dear PBers! Notes ✏️ have been made. Thanks for reading PB. 🎁 Gift yourself and others Parisbreakfast letters 💌, maps and watercolors🎨 in my Etsy shop.  ❤️💋🥂😊 🐻 

30 comments:

  1. I loved reading about the feud between Schiaparelli and Chanel - they were true enemies.

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    1. Parisbreakfast1:32 AM

      I must catch up on this! I’m sure there was tremendous competition and rivalry back in the day, but Schiap was a unique creator.

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    2. Parisbreakfast9:22 AM

      At one of the last costume balls in Europe before the outbreak of WW2, Chanel 'accidentally' caught Schiaparelli's dress on fire. After asking Elsa to dance with her, which was a toxic idea to begin with, Chanel steered her rival, who was dressed as a tree, into a chandelier lit with candles.
      https://www.eternalgoddess.co.uk/posts/the-fiery-feud-between-coco-chanel-and-elsa-schiaparelli

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    3. Part of the rivalry although Chanel always denied it was intentional. Read The Last Collection by Jeanne Mackin about the two of them during the war.

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    4. Anonymous11:50 PM

      You’re so in the know Suki! Thanks for sharing 🙏 PB

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  2. Très intéressant

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  3. Patsy Lavinia7:33 AM

    Oh Carol, thank you for taking us on this lovely exhibition. It was delightful.

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  4. Looks fabulous! Arts Decoratifs puts on the best shows! Nothing will ever top Dior or, as much as it surprised me, Barbie! I'm going to miss this one, and Vegetal, but simply can't make Paris this fall. See you in the spring. Quebec City wins the fall this year.

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    1. Parisbreakfast9:15 AM

      Bonjour tristesse Jeanne

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  5. Anonymous8:11 AM

    The peeps that put on exhibits at MAD are creative geniuses! Amazing. Schiaparelli was a creative genius in her own right. I adore those tromp l’œil sweaters. Another fab exhibit, Carol. 🙏🏻

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    1. Parisbreakfast12:03 AM

      I agree completely but they prefer aesthetics to legibility. Why are some labels at toe-level? And other labels in a severely darkened room in grey type on black etc. I would strike if I could. I must get a small flashlight 🔦 for future visits.

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  6. Bonnie L8:23 AM

    Schiaparelli…the godmother of shocking pink…led a fascinating life. I wish they’d make a movie of her life, from her psychic/medium “Count” of a first husband to her Berenson granddaughters. So interesting. Thanks for the visit to the exhibit!

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    1. Parisbreakfast9:14 AM

      Her own book, ‘Shocking’ is a fun, detailed read. At one of my 7th Ave fashion jobs I had to design a white pique playsuit for Marisa B. for a beach shot for Vogue…it was never going to be available in the stores. That’s how it was back then. Unfortunately she did not come in for a fitting but Verushka did on another occasion!!

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    2. You know, Carol, I think your memoir would make VERY interesting reading!

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    3. Bonnie L5:39 PM

      I 2nd that, 365 Dresses! How many fascinating careers can one woman have in one lifetime?! It would make for really interesting reading!

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    4. Parisbreakfast11:53 PM

      You are both hired to help me write my so-called memoire. An editor is waiting…not an easy project. Should I do it as a graphic novel?

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  7. I read about this exhibit. I was hoping you would go & take us along. Where ever you go opens my eyes & enriches my Parisiene dreams.🗼❤️

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    1. Parisbreakfast9:07 AM

      Thanks Ga, this was quite feast, more than one could take it first go..

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  8. Anonymous9:03 AM

    This exhibit is fabulous! Thank you for sharing it with us Carol. Love it! -Suzanne P.

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  9. Thanks Carol! To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete.

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    1. Parisbreakfast9:10 AM

      Thanks Lea
      Schiaparelli certainly build many new modes

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  10. Thank you Carol for this fascinating post! ...and for the Stella Jang song reference. So beautiful it made me cry. I miss beautiful Paris so much.

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    1. Parisbreakfast11:57 PM

      STELLA JANG is a new discovery to me thanks to instagram reels music. She is a K-Pop singer who lived and studied in Paris from ages 12-22 and attended the best schools like Henri IV, where Macron also went. The French are amazed at her excellent accent…when its her music that is extraordinary. Another version of L'Amour, Les Baguettes, Paris (guitar version)
      https://youtu.be/sxn_0Sx2UtQ

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  11. Anonymous9:33 AM

    As always, your blog is so interesting . Thanks from those of us who will never get to visit

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  12. Thank goodness you went through the whole exhibition! I’m afraid I would have been caught up in the drawing-filled entry, poring over those fantastic images!
    Thanks for commenting directions. If I didn’t get it right today, I will sooner or later😂

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    1. Parisbreakfast11:59 PM

      Bravo Jeanette 👏👏👏 commenting is a tad circuitous imho but say la Vie!

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  13. Annabella8:23 PM

    Fantastique! Thank you Carol for taking us virtually to this fascinating xhib 🥰 The rivalry story sounds good 😁

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  14. I liked her designs. I tried to read the article and made out a few things. She had a challenge with another designer a woman. I didn’t know the Italians bought her out and it was Tod’s I love their shoes. Handbags are gorgeous. It was interesting that she was the first in so many firsts. Thank you.

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  15. I've never been big on fashion for myself but I appreciate it for others. Some of these designs are just fabulous!

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  16. I was able to visit this exhibit recently while in Paris - and it was wonderful! An inspiring glimpse into French fashion history. Thank you Carol for the recommendation!

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