Thursday, March 31, 2022

Our Lyon


Last Saturday morning we set off for an overnight in Lyon (7:34 am). Voila! in 2hr5 minutes we arrived ready to conquer French cuisine!

First stop, a short walk from train station Part-Dieux - Paul Bocuse Halles. So much praliné!(sugared almonds)a Lyonnaise classic.
A spin around will show you the Lyonnaise specialties (Saucisson de Lyon (sausage), Rosette lyonnaise, Saucisson brioché) you Must eat. Plenty of free tastes and all upper crust quality. 
Ever onward to our reserved lunch at Le Nord, one of Paul’s bouchons. 
I had the ‘fix or formule’ (32€). An incredible froth of mushroom soup with bits of foie gras, and baked Cod. Carolyn likes to be independent and ordered a French steak. We both had tarte citron meringue for dessert. A superb lunch. Not an intimidating place. All very relaxed locals. 
On to the old town/Vieux Ville. No way could we eat dinner, so we combed the tiny medieval streets studying menus for Sunday’s lunch like everyone else. 
Next day this little bouchon appealed (Vieux Lyon). I’m not sure you can get a bad meal in Lyon. 
My ‘fix’ lunch (21,90) was salade Lyonnaise (lettuce with bacon, croûtons and a poached egg.), classic quenelles(ground, poached pike). We shared the profiteroles with home-made vanilla ice cream😊 Carolyn had onion soupe.
Then more wandering.
Old Lyon has exquisite hidden alleyways and alcoves to explore.
Traditional Lyonnaise silk
 shops of course.
Everyone was carrying a candy bag from Francois Praulis, so we did too.
I wanted to see the Musee de Cinema et Miniatures
Which was a marvel and close by.
Lyon is known for Guignol, its own punch and judy show. We visited the musée des Marionettes too. Don’t miss the secret garden on the top floor. 
It’s 31 March and I am still working on the March letter art 💌 Last day to buy a watercolor and make a contribution to Ukraine Red Cross. For the few PB readers who misunderstood, I do not have your names or email addresses, much less access to your Paypal accounts. None of your funds were taken. Sorry if I gave that impression. The black cat skills of Cary Grant are not mine. I did once paint an oligarch’s yacht in Cannes if you want to see it. 
Coming home to the Seine never disappoints.


  1. Lovely weekend trip to Lyon, Carol. You covered a lot of ground. It looks like there is a lot to see and do (and eat!) in Lyon. Pralus Barre Infernale Pistache are my fav candy bars in the world! Yum!

  2. Looks like an interesting city filled with delicious food and a charming old town to explore. The miniatures museum looked fascinating. I have a friend who is in the process of furnishing a Victorian doll house, she would have loved to visit that museum.🗼❤️

  3. Carol, I ordered from the Etsy site via cc. Do you have my address? I assumed it was part of the order.

    And on another note -- what a fabulous city and what a wonderful time you are having. Oh, that mini-museum looks like the best. Or wait -- maybe all that good food!

  4. I love miniatures so that museum would hold my attention all day. An then there is the food. That was a great trip.

  5. Jeanie you should have received an email yesterday, saying you watercolor was sent and the tracking number#

  6. John Dorry11:43 PM

    Would love to see the Oligarch’s yacht you painted !

  7. Suki, you would LOVE that museum!
    Maybe a day trip tp Lyon is in order?

  8. GeenEllyn11:53 PM

    Oh, I just wrote an article for our French announcement about Les mères de Lyon and their cuisine. How fun that you actually went there!

  9. I’m an idiot! I should have known.
    Thank you Wikipedia and GwenEllyn!
    Lyon is known as the "cradle" of the Mères, and the Mères had a profound effect on Lyonnaise cuisine, according to Curnonsky turning Lyon into the food capital of France and the world. According to Jean Vitaux, the Mères of Lyon "shaped an original, feminine and regional definition of gastronomy. They brought the gastronomic spotlight to Lyon, the undisputed gastronomical capital of France. Their influence and impact helped define and shape classic French cooking in modern times." Their work "secured the city’s reputation for exceptional cuisine.

  10. Jane Gabin7:13 AM

    Mais quoi?
    No mention of Lyons’s most famous son, the architect Hector Guimard?
    Did you know that he wife was American? And a portrait painter?

  11. Hmmm… His father became a gymnastics teacher at the Lycée Michelet in Vanves in 1878, and the following year Hector began to study at the Lycée. In October 1882 he enrolled at the École nationale supérieure des arts décoratifs, or school of decorative arts. He received his diploma on 17 March 1887, and promptly enrolled in the École des Beaux-Arts, where he studied architecture.
    When he was 11…so not a true Lyonnaise!!

  12. What a fun..interesting outing.And très gastronomique!

  13. Eugenia6:30 AM

    Your visit to Lyon reminded me of the book, Dirt, by American Bill Buford, subtitled Adventures in Lyon as a Chef in Training, Father and Sleuth Looking for the Secret of French Cooking. (2020) that I read last year. It was quite the tale of his adventures with La cuisine de Lyon, all the machinations and rivalries among the renowned chefs and cuisines in and around the city. It was mind- boggling and very revealing.

  14. I read an excerpt of his book in the Guardian..
    I was hoping to find the boulangerie he worked in bit not so easy..

  15. J'adore ton blog...Merci beauxoup


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