Friday, June 07, 2024
Culinary Retreat with Shannon & Wlady Grochowski
Monday, November 15, 2010
Dessert Fourplay
I promised you on Friday I'd return to the NY Chocolate show for Johnny Iuzzini's demo...
So here's JOHNNY!I don't think I'll ever misspell his name again.
His team of gorgeous assistants.
That's Johnny's dad, who always shows up to documents his shows for posterity. Sweet no?
Johnny's an upfront, funny kind of guy and happily shared all his tricks of the pastry trade. I'll pass on as much of his wisdom as I could scribble down and translate later. Johnny was French-trained and went to CIA.
Tools are important for his superb desserts at Restaurant Jean-Georges
But every home 'chef' can get his/her hands on an isi whipped cream dispenser. Measuring ingredients is another biggie. Grandma may have used her hands to show you how much of this or that to add to a recipe, but that won't work in a pastry kitchen. Everything has got to be METRIC!
Johnny uses 1.1 grams = 28th of an ounce as his standard measure.
And use a thermometer - monitor your temperatures future pastry chefs out there!
Liquid nitrogen..hmm well
Johnny demonstrates dripping chocolate straight into nitrogen to create chocolate lace, but you can do it in your home kitchen using a bucket of ice cubes.
Regarding chocolate - Johnny loves Valrhona, but other chocolates work well too - Guittard, Cluizel etc. depending on the dessert.*Buy 5 different (for example all 70%) brands of chocolates. Get to know their flavor profiles
Write down notes on file cards to refer to later.
Chocolate is a lot like wine - it has terroir too
Try & Taste & Smell EVERYTHING! Smell your food first.
And eat your food together, not separately.
That's how it was meant to be eaten.
CONTRASTS!
It's important to have different textures, different flavors, different temperatures in a dessert.
Always think about the textures.
Like think about Mac & Cheese. Then something crunchy to up the ante.
Textures are HUGE with Johnny
His desserts are: a single flavor, single tasting, single season at Jean-Georges.
Et voila - Le dessert!'Chocolate Curd with crispy Cacao Nib Tuile, White Chocolate-Sesame Clouds'
Quite a delicious mouthful!
So that's your taste of Johnny Iuzzini.His book, Dessert Foreplay, is written with the home cook in mind.
And I definitely tasted A LOT of chocolate putting together this post.I hope I did you justice Johnny :)
Later on Johnny was signing books and even talking to book buyer's sons on the phone Ha!Tuesday, August 01, 2006
Ice Cream For Breakfast
I was going to write about Pierre Hermé's chocolate cakes today but it's just too
At least in New York where you can easily spend $5.00 for a not-so-hot cup of 2 flavors at CONES for example.
They have a pretty shop and their flavors LOOK gorgeous but I thought the ice cream was mediocre. Sorry CONES, but THIS IS NOT GELATO!
I wasn't thrilled with Mary's Dairy ice cream either, though they do have adorable ice cream cone seats.
I tried their Yin-Yang flavor -Milk chocolate with Valrhona Bittersweet chunks...why ever would you pair these two? Valrhona deserves better. I don't think they'd approve. I've come to the conclusion that true gelato can not exist outside of Italy. There are factors like altitude and Italian cows you can't replicate. And forget cloning too. If you're ever in Bologna go to Gianni's. I'm excluding il laboratorio del gelato from this discussion because their stuff is celestial and something all together different.
Two Dips, watercolor, 10 1/2 x 7 3/4"
It's much easier to be an ice cream critic than a chocolate critic. Who hasn't eaten ice cream since almost day one ? Did your mom "trim" those 1st ice cream cones like my mom did? I'm not sure that's allowed anymore...off-limits territory for parents :( Nowadays Kids are King.
Speaking of drips, Food And Wine magazine says in their article, Shoot First, Eat Later that you should -> #3) Wipe glasses and plate edges. Be sure surfaces are free of smudges and greasy fingerprints, says food stylist Alison Attenborough. In good light, they really stand out.
I have yet to get this one right especially with a vulnerable subject like ice cream and I like a bit of mess in my photos. Hmmm..
The other day the NYTimes said “It’s simple, never leave a container of ice cream unfinished.” Otherwise you get ice crystals. Now I'm totally with them on this one. BTW the Watermelon ice cream shown here was delicious and I can recommend it without hesitation :)












