Rue Mouffetard Map

Quite a few mentioned Rue Mouffetard as a favorite Paris street I should draw ✍️ 

It was not my favorite street till I visited it many times for the map artwork.

'Rue Mouff' is both long and old. I decided to draw only the pedestrian paved way.

The barrier above starts at rue de l'Epee de Bois and heads downward. Most food shops are in this limited area anyway.

An old postcard of rue Mouff

It hasn't changed much. I took this last Sunday morning.

The base of the street has a fountain and a small marché. 

Don't miss the most amazing yogurt you will Ever taste at top traiteur Mavrommatis on nearby 47, rue Censier. It's uses milk from Greek cows but in made Paris. La crème de la crème. I bought a kilo bucket of the silkiest yogurt for a mere 5€.

The street if full of workers running up and down, many with baguettes 🥖 under their arms.

Go early to catch workers setting up.

The size of wheels of cheese in France are jaw dropping. There are FOUR fromageries on stretch of rue Mouff! And all worth investigating.

FromagerieAndrouet at the bottom is terrific the murals above the awning. Don't forget to look up ⬆️ 

Wine tasting in the street at one of the 3-4 wine sellers.

Mococha at #87, just above the barrier - a new discovery for me.

Superb, top drawer chocolates from France's best chocolatiers (Gillotte, Bellanger). You can buy just one chocolate to taste and don't miss the exquisite small cup of hot chocolate for 2€.

The soul and heartbeat of rue Mouff is at #123. 

Maison Morange boulangerie where lines are constant.

Another top purveyor, Patissier Carl Marletti at 51, rue Censier, famous for his winning  tarte citron and fraisier. If you arrive at noon on Sunday expect to settle for only a madeleine if you're lucky. The cupboard will be bare. Early birds get the tartes.

Nearly across from the boulangerie and serving their baguettes, the small bistro Le Verre à Pied serves a very good lunch formule for 11-15€. Do not show up at 2:50 and expect to get served by the way.

Hemingway lived in many residences around rue Mouf and it took me way too many sketches to capture his likeness. I got a helping hand from Nikon's Hemingway's Paris blog. Loaded with atmospheric photos of the roaring Twenties. A don't miss.

Julia Child shopped on rue Mouf often.

I think I did better justice to her cat, Minette on this months map.

I wanted Julia and Hemingway to form a kind of traditional cartouche.

Enfin the October Paris map letter is done and shipping out from la Poste today! Hooray. 

Now on to November map. Do look in my Etsy shop. 

Paris letters in your mailbox can be quite entertaining. Or so they tell me ;))

Jam Trouble - Les Confiture Letter

It's that time of the month again when I go through torture creating the newest Paris Letter.

Inspiration for October's letter came last Spring when Coco Jobard showed off her wonderful old Alsatian jam(confiture) dish towel. Jars of luscious fruity jam spell Fall to me. I'm crazy for the hand-written labels, the fluted glass jars. Jam on toast or a croissant plus tea and a good book is the best no?

But researching jam for 3+ weeks is maybe not the best kind of immersion for the easily tempted.

These jam hats (chapeau pot de confiture) made me swoon. You can find a wonderful variety of hats on Littlemarket.com.

Some of the best hats are worn on the best jam made in France by Alsatian Christine Ferber. She hand-ladles her heavenly jams into each pot to maintain quality. I dream of visiting her shop in Niedermorschwihr if I ever figure out how to pronounce it. These jams are in the new Galerie Lafayette's Food department, moved across the street from the main store.

Three glorious floors of food boutiques and mini restaurants and everything is clearly marked out. Le Grand Epicerie feels like a maze since they redid it. I forever get lost and can't find what I want.

Do come prepared and wear battle gear to browse the huge jam department at Galeries.

If you plan to make jam yourself you'll need a different kind of armor.

Head over to Librairie Gourmands on 92, rue Montmartre 75002 for the best selection of cookbooks in Paris, two floors of them. some are in English. All of them gorgeous.

Their windows right now are full of jam cookbooks. I bought this one though I'll never lift a wooden spoon or stir strawberries in a copper pot. Look for 'cuit au chaudron' (cooked in a caldron) on the labels. Traditional copper pots are great conductors of heat. You want to cook your fruit quickly and evenly.

They have adorable boxed preserves sets with all the essential  accoutrement for jam-making. So tempting.

Researching jam requires a visit to La Chambres au Confitures. There's a new branch in the Marais.

Inside it's wall-to-wall jam divided into seasonal flavors. You can sample every jam in the place and I almost did before deciding on fig. See my sampling spoons below.

If you're like me, you have 'impulse control issues'. Then its best to stick to collecting miniature jam jars. Once jam enters my house it's 'Gone Girl' in the blink of the eye.

Painting jam, on the other hand, is a perfectly safe endeavor for the jam-addicted. It is advisable to work from photographs not the real thing.

Frenchy script on jam jar labels (etiquettes) always intrigues me. My first banner for Parisbreakfast was a jam label. If you're mad for these little paper stickers the best source is BHV, second floor craft department.

I used mini jam jars to sketch from, to minimize the damage of wolfing down big jars of apricot jam in one fell swoop. Size matters.

Parisbreakfast readers often ask for old watercolor still lives so I made this Paris letter more washy.

Finally, after too much jam research, the October letter is done and on it's way to you.

You can see ALL of the October letter uncovered on Etsy. If you've been resisting subscribing here's an enticement. A jar of pear jam (an original watercolor 4" x 6") sent as a bonus if you subscribe to the Paris Sketch Letters. This is the perfect time of year for jam don't you think.