Thursday, October 29, 2015

Whose afraid of Julia Child, Hemingway, rue Mouffetard?

Quite a few of you mentioned Rue Mouffetard as a favorite Paris street I should draw.
Not my favorite street till I visited it many times for the map artwork.
'Rue Mouff' as its referred to is both long and old. I decided to draw only the pedestrian paved way.
The barrier above starts at rue de l'Epee de Bois and heads downward. Most food shops are in this limited area anyway.
An old postcard of rue Mouff
It hasn't changed much. I took this last Sunday morning.
The base of the street has a fountain and a small marché. Don't miss the most amazing yogurt you will Ever taste at top traiteur Mavrommatis on nearby 47, rue Censier. It's made with milk from Greek cows but in Paris. La crème de la crème. I bought a kilo bucket of the silkiest yogurt for a mere 5€.
The street if full of workers running up and down, many with baguettes under their arms.
Go early to catch workers setting up.
The size of wheels of cheese in France are jaw dropping. There are FOUR fromageries on stretch of rue Mouff! And all worth investigating.
FromagerieAndrouet at the bottom is terrific as is the murals above it. Don't forget to look up.
Wine tasting in the street at one of the 3-4 wine sellers.
Mococha at #87, just above the barrier, is a new discovery for me.
Superb, top drawer chocolates from France's best chocolatiers (Gillotte, Bellanger). You can buy just one chocolate to taste and don't miss the exquisite small cup of hot chocolate for 2€.
The soul and heartbeat of rue Mouff is T #123. Maison Morange boulangerie where the lines are constant.
Another top purveyor, Patissier Carl Marletti at 51, rue Censier, famous for his winning  tarte citron and fraisier. If you arrive at noon on Sunday expect to settle for a madeleine if you're lucky. The cupboard will be bare. Early birds get the tartes.
Nearly across from the boulangerie and serving their baguettes, the small bistro Le Verre à Pied serves a very good lunch formule for 11-15€. Do not show up at 2:50 and expect to get served by the way.
Hemingway lived in many residences around rue Mouf and it took me way too many sketches to capture his likeness. I got a helping hand from Nikon's Hemingway's Paris blog. Loaded with atmospheric photos of the roaring Twenties. A don't miss.
Julia Child shopped on rue Mouf often.
I think I did better justice to her cat, Minette on this months map.
I wanted Julia and Hemingway to form a kind of traditional cartouche.
Enfin the October Paris map letter is done and shipping out from la Poste today! Hooray. 
Now on to November map. Do look in my Etsy shop
Paris letters in your mailbox can be quite entertaining. Or so they tell me ;))


  1. hey hey hey! That day we walked down rue Mouffetard was such fun that I might just have to return to Paris to do it again. Thanks for including me in the map!

  2. I love that street at least I think I would LOVE that street..and your map:) Julia:)

    Oh lala lots to love here.

    1. That street has your name on it..even begins with an M!

  3. Rue Mouffetard...good for flâner and watching les gens, especially because of no voitures...
    Fun map, I like the cartouche with Hemingway and Child!
    Moi, I've been doing some painting sans ink line, lately...

  4. Maureen9:25 AM

    I love the shot of the young couple sitting separately at Le Verre A Pied. Turned away from one another. Too bad that older couple walker through le scene ha ha.

  5. Can't wait for mine to arrive.

  6. Love this post! Do you have a compilation of "not to miss" spots in Paris? I'll be visiting in December.

  7. I could go here anytime , love this Rue .. :-)

  8. Bonnie L6:12 PM

    Receiving your Paris letters in my mailbox IS great fun! Your letters are inspirational. After umpteen trips to Paris, and never having visited rue Mouffetard, I am putting it on our itinerary for our November visit. Another bonne idée, Carol. Merci!

  9. I love your sketches and watercolors, Carol. The photos are great, too - but the sketches seem particularly good in this post.
    The street has certainly become more than a utilitarian shopping spot!

  10. Cheryl T.12:46 AM

    Debbie and I stayed close to Mouffetard last year in a little apartment. We used to walk to the market in the morning to get a baquette and fruit for breakfast (not to mention there is a really nice wine shop with bargain wine prices). Thanks for the memories.

  11. WineWalker12:48 AM

    Carol/ thanks for this one/ love mouf

  12. Ruth S.12:50 AM

    I'm so glad to see this! I was there in '86 and remember little. This is at the top of my list to see in June!! Thanks so much...

    1. Then start at the top of the hill and walk down.
      Yummy pastries await!

  13. Jillian12:53 AM


    They always are , but today , well you are forwarded a plenty !!

    Merci beaucoup & very happy weekend wishes, lovely you you

    And I bet Janice misses you too ! XX

  14. I LOVE IT!!!!!

  15. Francophile from Montana12:59 AM

    Sketches, Paris maps, photos, they're all wonderful! Thanks for sharing your talent.

  16. Ann K.1:06 AM


  17. Barb in CA1:11 AM

    As you know my favorite favorite favorite


    Now this is my favorite favorite favorite PB!

    Had a few lunches with you there!

    I am Really really missing Paris!


    1. I wanted to include Marc's but too many Fab places on rue Mouff!

  18. FoodWalker1:30 AM

    Love Rue Mouf- remember when you came for dinner when we stayed a block from there and we ate mussels I'd bought at the fish Mkt you had in your blog?

    Love the scruffy wine bar at the upper end of the street. Wonderful place to stop for a glass.

  19. Great blog post:))). I love this street! Remember the fabulous mural wall done in simple brown, next to that little park where we sat and ate our pastries?? So beautiful !

  20. Full of French food jealosy!
    Thanks for sharing though :)


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