Just a short 1 1/2 hr bus ride from Aix (#18 bus from the Gare Routier 11€ one-way). My constant and best companion in Provence and the Luberon was Marjorie Williams' MARKETS OF PROVENCE. Its not just markets but historic background, monuments not to be missed, restaurants, regional specialties. My other general guidebooks got left behind. Marjorie's book is more fun. Just 4.5" by 6", its lightweight, easy to pop in your bag, though I admit to ripping pages out and marking them up with abandon. For more info on Marjorie please visit her web site. I reviewed her MARKETS OF PARIS here.
Maybe you're not a foodie? Going to a local Provencal marché reveals the essence of a culture. What people eat tells all. Almonds are an important product in Provence. They turn up in many dishes, especially the galette des rois.
The Sacristan - a 12" long twisted stick of puff pastry covered in toasted almonds + a ton of powdered sugar. I ate all the almonds, leaving the pastry and a big telltale sprinkling of powdered sugar down my front. Some pastries should come with a bib.
If you love ❤️ olives, Provence is heaven.
This post could have been entirely olives. Lucque olives are a Provençal don't miss..
A mountain of garlic revealing Provençal flavors.
Next to the much loved apricots. I just discovered there's a Fete de l'Apricot in July. Hmmm...total immersion for a weekend...very tempting.
I'm adding in some of the 31 van Gogh paintings at the Arles Fondation Vincent Van Gogh.
This post could have been entirely olives. Lucque olives are a Provençal don't miss..
A mountain of garlic revealing Provençal flavors.
Next to the much loved apricots. I just discovered there's a Fete de l'Apricot in July. Hmmm...total immersion for a weekend...very tempting.
I'm adding in some of the 31 van Gogh paintings at the Arles Fondation Vincent Van Gogh.
Arles is close to many borders, products are on offer from Corsica, Spain, and Italy.
Local lavender honey. I'm flirting with a visit to a fete de la lavandre..I've never been. Give me a push.
Local lavender honey. I'm flirting with a visit to a fete de la lavandre..I've never been. Give me a push.
A good portion of this long marché is clothing and household items. I was tempted.
I loved the cerise and polka-dot table cloths but ending up buying another scarf for a fiver. I have no resistance in France.
I got an olive fougasse too. It's a regional specialty.
One of van Gogh's gleaners. Note the gorgeous colors of the walls at the Fondation.
The Arles marché covers a long boulevarde - Bd. Georges Clemenceau turns into Bd. des Lices (they can do this in France, change the name midway). I didn't make it the full length of the marché, though both sides are conveniently lined with cafes to stop, rest and refresh. Absinth for breakfast?
Van Gogh's famous glistening glass and bottle of Absinth at the Fondation..
In the Fondation's reading room you can catch up on past shows. No drawings in the current exhibit but this energetic print captures the mad, delicious hustle, bustle of Arles wonderful marché.
I loved the cerise and polka-dot table cloths but ending up buying another scarf for a fiver. I have no resistance in France.
I got an olive fougasse too. It's a regional specialty.
One of van Gogh's gleaners. Note the gorgeous colors of the walls at the Fondation.
The Arles marché covers a long boulevarde - Bd. Georges Clemenceau turns into Bd. des Lices (they can do this in France, change the name midway). I didn't make it the full length of the marché, though both sides are conveniently lined with cafes to stop, rest and refresh. Absinth for breakfast?
Van Gogh's famous glistening glass and bottle of Absinth at the Fondation..
In the Fondation's reading room you can catch up on past shows. No drawings in the current exhibit but this energetic print captures the mad, delicious hustle, bustle of Arles wonderful marché.
Thanks for reading Parisbreakfast!
If you like this post please support it by buying my letters and watercolors from Paris. Please pass on to someone you think might enjoy it.
If you like this post please support it by buying my letters and watercolors from Paris. Please pass on to someone you think might enjoy it.
I think I can never go there -- I'd spend more at the market than on my airfare and have to live in a hovel evermore. Oh, almonds and olives, be still my heart. Rich, briny olives and almonds because -- well, sometimes you feel like a nut (and why not have the best!). All the colors. Oh, I might have had to cave on those tablecloths, too. Nice restraint!
ReplyDeleteI could write a book on restraint or the lack of it rather...
DeletePlease buy some of those apricots and make Charlotte Puckett's Apricot Tart with Mascarpone and Honey Cream. It is one of the best desserts I have ever made.
ReplyDeleteSounds Fab but I'm sticking to celerie not best desserts anymore!!!
DeleteYour colors just sing off the page/screen, Carol. Gently exuberant and a sheer joy.
ReplyDeletePlease please please do a book. I enjoyed Vivian Swift's Gardens of Awe and Folly so much and thank you for introducing me to her and her work. More joy!
Cheers from Denver
Colorado USA
If only it were easy to do :(
DeleteNot.
I adore the provençal markets - felt like a quick whirlwind stop here, thanks, since I could do with a dose. Too long it has been. Carol - love your apricot paintings, why don't you make them into aprons or Provençal almond pastry bibs? I'd help you sell them at the market!
ReplyDeleteYou've got me laughing outloud at Le Havre train station.
DeleteNew yorker moves to Paris and becomes major bib-maker!! Oui bien sur
This post seriously made me want to buy my ticket to Arles and leave this afternoon!
ReplyDeleteI cannot stand the idea of MISSING all this wonderfulness!
Alas, I must live vicariously through your incredible journeys.
Thank you for this spectacular blog.
I adore apricots; I adore olives.....I may be going to Provence for a week or so next year before Paris....
ReplyDeleteI'm already salivating...
Go in June during Cote Sud Vivre...really fun!
DeleteDear Carol, this post is absolutely sumptuous! On this chilly day in NYC, I feel the warmth of Arles and send you many thanks. xo
ReplyDeleteThank you for the fabulous mention(s) of my Provence book. I'm delighted that it proved to be such a trustworthy companion during your visit. That's marvelous.
ReplyDeleteI received my lovely Vincent Van Goth water color print in the mail last week. I just love it. I am having it specially framed and will email a photo of your framed painting when it is done. :) In the mean time I wanted to push you to go to the fete de la lavandre as I personally love lavender fields and lavender products like lavender honey. I look forward to your emails as I love your photography and water color paintings.
ReplyDeleteYou put a smile on my face. And yes I think I have to go to the lavender!
DeleteI loved all artwork - yours and Van Gogh's!!! All foods looked delicious. (My grandson liked the apricots!)
ReplyDeleteFantastic!!! Food is nice!! Van Gogh the best!!
ReplyDeleteJust want you to know I absolutely LOVE your blog
ReplyDeleteMiam, Miam. The apricots look so lucious - as does everything else. I think you must go back for the Fete de lavandre so we can attend through your photos and watercolors, lavender is such a beautiful color.
ReplyDeleteA beautiful watercolor to open, Carol. Stunning.
ReplyDeleteI love the "Shimmering glass." And there's a photo of a heap of bright red cherries that is a grabber.
Thanks Paul!
DeleteVan Gogh's glass of absinth with carafe d'eau is a beaut!
What brilliant markets in Arles, I love eating all the things you showed us! Who knew such a fabulous book existed on markets, thanks.
ReplyDeleteI can highly recommend reading all of Vivian Swift's books, her blog is how I discovered Paris Breakfasts.
It is cold rainy winter here in Australia and I'm seriously considering you're lovely apricot print......
Go, please to see the Lavander, go for all your fans!
ReplyDeleteThe print is beautiful..so clear I see the grain.
ReplyDeletePerfect apricot color..love Provence but I told you that already.
So glad I stopped by, your blog is informative and exciting. I love France, and havn't been there nearly as much as I'd like to. The pastries, the olives and meat cuts..Yummy! Jacqui
ReplyDeletewww.mummabstylish.com
Arles was my first French market and I was amazed. I remember people selling live chickens, the guy with the tubs of spices, and most of all the people selling rototillers beside the Roman wall. Loved it!
ReplyDeleteOh my, you took me back to St. Remy (yes, I know you were in Arles) where I have enjoyed les marches so many times. Love those powdered sugar Sacristains.
ReplyDeleteThe first watercolor is so lovely. Quite frankly, I could use some (more) beauty today to encourage. Thank you. :-)
ReplyDelete