Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Vincent at Auvers-sur-Oise

A new watercolor print in my etsy shop from my visit to Auvers-sur-Oise last Saturday. Friends have been urging me to go for ages. Metro posters beckoned. It's a 38-minute direct train ride (on the weekends upstairs at Gare du Nord from platform 36 with the Transilien line). What a perfect town to paint. No wonder Pissarro, Corot, Cezanne, Daumier, Daubigny and Van Gogh immersed themselves here.
The Iris fete, 'L'amour au Jardin' was taking place at Chateau d'Avers.
While others headed off to the local tourist office I took the higher road
Up to the church famously painted by Van Gogh (pronounced Van Gog in France by the way). There are no original paintings in Auvers, but 19 posters will help you recognize the sites he painted.
No crows flying on Saturday either as in Van gogh's last painting, but the open, waving wheat fields easily makes you feel you've stepped into his painting. There was a touching (bi-lingual) letter at the cemetary written by an attendee at Van Gogh's funeral recounting his last days.
I can't say I was the biggest fan of Van Gogh though I've always loved his ink drawings in his letters to his brother, Theo, but visiting Auvers changed my mind.
The undulating rooftops, green hilly lawns, bushy plane trees make it easy to see what Van Gogh saw and felt.
The town wasn't crowded with too many tourists on such a beautiful day.
'Watch out for the cat'.
Wonderfully colored iris line Avers' curving lanes.
Van Gogh painted bunches of iris in gardens and in a white pitcher. He stayed in Auvers the last 70 days of his life and made a painting every single day.
Auberge Ravoux was his residence at 3,50 fr a day.
It's been carefully preserved.
Absolutely nothing remains of any of Van Gogh's possessions in his room yet it's a poignant experience to visit. You can watch a short video of his life before entering his room.
Why did I resist the stunning auberge napkins and tablecloth.
Van Gogh egg cup? I would have killed for this combo egg cup/coffee cup, but not for sale.
Off to the chateau for the garden soiree.
Why didn't I buy this little Van Gogh figurine? And I missed visiting Dr Gachet's house and the Absinth museum.
The next day I went to visit the two Van Gogh rooms at musee d'Orsay(Rm.70,71).
And you should too. Visiting the town of Avuers-sue-Oise
Is the perfect introduction to learning to love van Gogh if you not a fan. I have maps of Auvers to send out with the watercolor print if you're so inclined. Do not miss this town either way if you're coming to Paris. Heavenly.

28 comments:

  1. I went right over to the shop before finishing the post-I sighed out loud-love this series and I am a lover of Van Gogh....It was his madness...the thickness of his brush stroke- the movement he captured his quest for love and partnership --the tragedy that was his life ..... from childhood he has always been a favorite- cannot wait to receive your wonderful creation

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  2. It seems as though one should spend one month in Paris not one week..for all the sidetrips you make us want to take.The santons..would that one be one?

    Your carreau of Auvers♥
    I guess with every place you visit yu must put a halt to what you buy..that must be hard!
    That green is the green that adorned some doors and shutters in Provence at La Ferme De La Huppe..w/ stone..extraordinary.

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  3. ive been there few years ago ,it was amazing for me to visit the Van Gogh's bedroom and to eat for lunch in the same hotel ..

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    1. I wish I'd eaten there too Mimi
      What an experience!

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  4. Wonderful post! You and David Downie (in 'Paris, Paris') are inspiring me to visit Auvers sur Oise ... have also had on to-read list 'Leaving Van Gogh' by Carol Wallace which has excellent reviews - in case may be of interest to you as well https://www.amazon.com/Leaving-Van-Gogh-Carol-Wallace-ebook/dp/B004J4WNI0?ie=UTF8&keywords=leaving%20van%20gogh&qid=1464253685&ref_=sr_1_1&s=books&sr=1-1

    Cheers and happy painting in Paris :)

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    1. Thank you Carolyn B. I just ordered the book. A trip to Auvers makes you hungry for more information on Van Gogh!!

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  5. Anonymous9:37 AM

    In my 75 years I have had a few experiences that made me wonder about past lives-not a believer, just a moments ponder-but seeing the stone houses and those lovely lanes with flowers lining the way struck such an emotional chord and evoked such a sense of familiarity, so lovely and seemed so familiar. I could almost smell the aroma of food and the sounds of dogs barking. You are not French and yet you gave up your life to move there and have been so happy with that decision. Did you ever have a sense of returning to something known before-a place you knew in some deeper way.............?

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    1. The simple answer is no.
      France is a constant discovery for me. I try to be open to experiences with no preconceived opinions. Creating the watercolor prints after a trip gives me the chance to relive my experiences so its very rewarding.

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  6. Love Love this trip!

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  7. Thank you so much for this post, Carol. I am a Van Gogh admirer, particularly all those wonderful ink drawings. I still remember the huge VG exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum, that let us see what was going to eventually be housed in the Amsterdam VG Museum. I've also visited there.
    The undulating terrain of Auvers that your photographs show so well do give me a "different perspective" on many of the final Van Gogh works.
    Perhaps you will be returning for another longer visit to this interesting place?
    Your own watercolors are splendid! xo

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    1. Auvers makes a perfect day trip.
      So much to see in France and i am behind...but. I hope to get back

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  8. Violette10:35 AM

    This is beautiful!

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  9. I love Auvers sur Oise. I could feel the sadness still permeating Vincent's room. Last time I went, the town's museum had a wonderful Art Naif show with lots of cat paintings! Daubigny's house and the Absinthe Museum are wonderful too.

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    1. I did go to the Daubigny museum. Very nice portrait drawing show on. Loved it.

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  10. Another day trip on the list but, soon, we won't have enough time in Paris.

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    1. That's OK Suki.
      'We'll always have Paris' as Audrey said (I think...)

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  11. Wendy in Baltimore8:02 PM

    Thanks for taking us along on your trip to Auvers-sur-Oise. I've been there, and it was a lovely town! Your post was like taking a walk back in time, as it hasn't changed very much, since Van Gogh was there. We visited the graveyard, where Vincent and Theo are buried, to pay our respects. We had a pass for all of the museums and sights, and saw many of them. The Chateau was a favorite, as the audio-visual tour let us sit in a cabaret, and "take' a train ride from Paris to the town. We also missed seeing the Absinthe Museum. It's an incentive to go back again.

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    1. Love hearing your story of Auvers Wendy.
      Everyone is moved I think there...an emotional experience.

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  12. Spectacular! Thank you, Carol. It is all so touching......S.

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  13. Bonnie8:11 PM

    Sensational, Carol!!!!!

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  14. Ilona from Australia!!12:18 AM

    Thank you Carol, I feel like I was with you today!! It certainly put a smile on my face. X

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  15. Lovely post, what a beautiful village and great to learn more about Van Gogh. Somewhere to visit next time I'm in France. I agre there's always Paris!

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  16. Kathleen2:28 PM

    Love love love Vincent Van Gogh! (Did you ever see the film "Vincent & Theo"? - opens with an auction - at Sotheby's I think - Sunflowers selling for millions and then switches to a small tiny room with a poverty stricken VVG - all about the relationship between the brothers (intense!). I think Theo died (syphilis?) about 6 months after Vincent.
    Loved your watercolors, toooooooooooooooooooooo!

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    1. As soon as I got home Kathleen I was watching non-stop youtube Vincent films. Fascinating!

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  17. I absolutely love your opening painting Carol. It captures the ambience totally and the colours are beautiful. Long time since I've been up to Auvers since there was a time we always went there with visitors. Time to revisit. Thanks for the push!

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  18. Normajean11:47 PM

    I just love your photos! They are so real. It's impossible to describe to anyone who hasn't been to Paris the feeling of Paris....
    and your photos make me feel like I am right there and all my senses are opened up again..... doesn't matter if the sun is shining or
    it is raining.... it's Paris......

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  19. this post of yours is "Exceptional" love your paintings, your photo's and the beautiful way you walked us through your tour...

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  20. Well, I've always been a fan so I would certainly love this. Only I would have bought the tablecloth, I think! And the little man! Your painting is particularly beautiful and I can see why you loved this spot. It's one I must someday visit. In the spring, with the iris.

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