Thursday, April 13, 2017

Marché d'Aligre, April map

I used to come to Paris and never go to the MARCHÉ. I was terrified. What was I thinking?
Marjorie Williams of Markets of Paris (and Provence) has a little VIDEO to help you overcome your fears and discover one of Paris' great vibrant treasures. Easy transport- take Metro 8 or bus86 to stop Ledru-Rollin. A good shortcut I discovered yesterday - turn left onto rue Antoine Vollon. At #8 grab a terrific sandwich at top patisserie Blé Sucre
They have Paris' best madeleines to boot. Walk to the end of the park and turn left.
Take rue Theophile Roussel into Marché Aligre. At #1 you can drink 'une verre' at le Baron Rouge.
Gorgeous fait maison chocolates at Puerto Cacao at #2. Note their exterior is patterned like a chocolate bar.
David Lebovitz likes bistro Le Charolais around the corner on #15 rue de Cotte for their steak frits.
Just across the street is the covered market, Marche Beauveau.
Inside beaucoup specialty purveyers; poissonnerie, fromageries, traiteurs l'Italiane, bieres, marchand d'epices.
And bio patisserie Jo and Co.
Then head out the front entrance into the heart of the marche.
The most accessible of Paris' markets, d'Aligre is open 6 days a week from 7 am - 1:30
Another great plus is you can help yourself without getting yelled at at d'Aligre.
There are plenty of free tastes and you're not obliged to buy unlike some other markets. Prices are great. There is always room for bargainng. Most vendors are multi-lingual I've found but do say your 'Bonjours' like Marjorie suggests.
Come 12:30 you'll hear vendors singing 
Its Sale time in the market.
Don't miss la Graineterie in the corner for potted herbs, unusual grains and beans.
The daily scruffy flea market in Place d'Aligre sells old books, kicknacks. I was so busy shooting I missed seeing this great find. A top hat Moet and Chandon Champagne ice bucket! All I could see-Japanese fans. Will it be there tomorrow..?
Paris map inspiration comes from where ever. I discovered 19th century chromos prints of vegetable people. I couldn't resist throwing them in. Please do not miss out visiting Paris' vibrant markets. There's no better place to start than marché d'Aligre. Its in the 12th arrondissment by the way. As someone asked,'where's the 12th?' Next Time I'll add a mini arrondissement map. 
Would you like more markets or a passage map perhaps? Do tell. Thanks for reading Parisbreakfast. You can help support Bear by subscribing to Paris letters and maps, Or forward to a friend.
The market flower girl is singing, "Li-la, li-la"


  1. There are certain things we do which are so frustrating in hindsight. When I first moved to LA, I refused to go to a store here because I assumed I wouldn't like it. It's my favorite store now! Ugh, how many years I missed out on it! So glad you're enjoying this area you didn't frequent earlier. The fruit/veg and flowers look fantastic! Love your map, too! Sharing this on my FB page. :)

    1. Thank you Christina!
      Paris markets are such an uplift. The colors, aromas, the people.
      Really a fun experience. Funny about your store. I bet we all do that.

  2. This is wonderful. The lilac woman is like a character out of Collette.
    While Marché Aligre sounds great (and David Lebovitz has written beautifully about it, too), all the same, I am glad I don't have to deal with the big-city side of Paris. One would never get yelled at for helping oneself or be expected to buy in order to taste in the markets of smaller French cities. The cheese vendor will ply you with several kinds and not even ask whether you want to buy, just in case you might be too embarrassed to say so.

  3. Wonderfully LUSH, my dear!

    Love yer little map and Veggie people.

  4. Mariangela3:34 PM

    Wowww wonderful!!!

  5. GwenEllyn3:36 PM

    J'adore the April map! :)

  6. Love yr last 3 posts. Charming!!!
    You have Marché maddness!

  7. Miranda3:45 PM

    The black top hat ice bucket is WONDERFUL!
    And you were looking right at it. Maybe good even for lilacs?

  8. Anne T4:51 PM

    Splendid post. A work of art.
    Thank you!

  9. Thrilled to be a part of your post! Le Marché Aligre is one of my favorite markets in Paris, and now April is one of my favorite months since you've celebrated it with this adorable map!

  10. Okay, this time, it's the green bicycle. Delicious, your posts are simply delicious.
    Love your work, always.

  11. I think all your maps are brilliant! Unfortunately I've never been to a Paris market (I've only usually been there for a few days). But I will try to next time as I love markets. I go to our local one each weekend for my shopping. So I'm happy to get more Market maps! Thanks as always for showing us the really great things about Paris.

    1. I will personally take you Kirra!
      Not kidding either ;))

  12. Paris flower markets are ingrained in my mind forever..I don't know if other places have them..but I know ..we don't..they are cute..and sweet..but very humble compared to what I saw in Paris.
    Utter charm..abundance..color..and variety.and LARGE bouquets.

    Lve the map...and the veggie peeps.

  13. I love the Paris markets and will have to go back to Marche d"Aligre not that I have your map. Also plan to do Marche des Enfants Rouge as we never got there last time. Had a fun time at the Sunday Bastille Market in pouring rain, but found the "chicken Lady" & got our rotisserie chicken for dinner.

  14. Tons of beautiful photos, Carol - and the watercolors.

  15. Suzanne P10:24 PM

    I look forward to receiving my April map of the markets. I love our farmers markets here in Portland,

  16. Jane G!4:47 AM

    Arivee! my PB market map plus a Monoprix eating guide!


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