Breakfast at Notre Dame

Bear has been moaning why haven't we visited Notre Dame properly what with all these day trips out of town off to Reims and Chartres? After giving it some thought I decided he had a point.

Breakfast at Notre Dame requires a croissant 🥐 amandes (not eaten inside the cathedral s'il vous plait).

Visiting Notre Dame super early will serve you well. We left the house at 8 AM.

We had the place almost to ourselves.

Bliss.

Lovely peace and quiet.

An hour later at 9:00 the tours arrive.

Still, when you look up, you don’t see the selfies

The north rose window is spectacular, the finest of Notre Dame's 3 rose windows.

Building work began way back in the 12th century. It was not until some 300 years later construction finally came to an end.

An adorable mini replica Notre Dame Limoge box in the gift shop.

For the artistically-inclined - a mini porcelain easel and palette.

Perfect view for a visiting artist painting on the bridge.

Notre Dame is completely accessible when you go early. You avoid the crowds.

If like me, you're becoming obsessed with Medieval France and Gothic architecture, this is the book. It's hard to find here in English (unless you go to Amiens evidently). OPrinciples and Elements of Medieval Church Architecture in Western Europe< is a short(only 40 pages), yet tall book full of detailed, excellent diagrams. I'm hoping for my copy arrives soon. It was outside the door and chocked full of interesting stuff like 'A theology of light' - how architects controlled the streams of light entering the space. An amazing book.

By the way did you know gargoyles, the drainage system that line Notre Dame's roof, got their name because of the gargling noise made by the water draining.

On to my work-in-progress, the Paris Map drawing for rue Montorgueil.

Maison Stohrer (founded in 1730) at No. 51 is la creme de la cream of the street and the centerpiece of my next map.

Stohrer invented the heavenly baba au rhum. I had to munch down a few to find the inner essence of the street. I've included in the map: Charles Chocolat, La Fermette fromagerie, Cafe Montorgueil and Mariage Freres (a newcomer but it's a lovely shade of yellow like Stohrer).

Do you have some favorite places on rue Montorgueil to share?

Do tell SVP.

Reims et Champagne Mumm

It's Friday so this must be Reims, Champagne capitol of the world.

I thought I might escape a tasting but once you're there it seems de rigueur. Champagne MUMM is my alma mater so to speak. I did art work for MUMM 20 years ago.

Call the day/week ahead. You will need a reservation.

Even though I worked in the Champagne business for 2-3 years and stayed at Mumm's mansion, it is always interesting to take the cellar tour. Tasting their CORDON ROUGE BRUT was an delight end-of-tour.

The long, long dark underground cellar storing 25 million bottles is the perfect counterpart

To visit Reims Cathedral, above-ground wondrously high passage ways. You feel like an ant.

An overcast day turned absolutely beautiful.

Reims (rhymes with "chance" if you hit the "n" lightly) is merely 45 minutes away from Paris on the new special TGV.

Skip the self-tour audio guide. Unfortunately there is no riveting Malcolm Miller of Chartres to decipher this Gothic temple. But there are well-written explanation posts at each point of reference.

Upon entering the cathedral I could hear the faintest hint of choral singing.

In the Chagall chapel all the way back on the left, a lovely compilation of choral singing is playing. I hope it's played everyday. There is no CD available upfront in the shop sadly. The perfect companion for exploring Reims Cathedral or any cathedral I suspect.

My watercolor stains using reds and blues over a pale, pale yellow wash.

I've used the WATERCOLOR POCKET PALETTE for years for layering colors.

More stained glass of an edible sort rom Waida Patisserie

Back in the cathedral the very fine 'Rose' window is not to be missed.

A 'rose' window made up of chocolate bouchon filled with champagne.

Don't miss visiting MAISON FOSSIER, Home of the famous pink biscuits (le biscuits rose) you can dip into your Champagne and they won't crumble.

The word biscuit comes from bi-cuit (baked twice) and originally colored with carmine to hide the black specks of vanilla bean in the biscuits.

Along with all these other 'must-dos' do read Ina Cara's PARIS TO THE PAST. Thank you Jean for insisting. I even got the audio version. It's perfect for visits to France's Gothic cathedrals, fill of intriguing historic anecdotes and an aesthetic point of view as well.

I love how Caro reminds you to notice the half-Rose window at Gare de l'Est before you set off for Reims. Her book, full of details like that is my new BBF.

Still more watercolor stains for Paris letter/map subscribers/renewers. Here Ye all!

Chartres with Malcolm Miller, Centre International du Vitrail, mini DIY Stains

Yesterday I took the 1-hour train ride to  CHARTRES CATHEDRAL from Gare Montparnasse.

I haven't visited since my first trip to Europe at 18

After visiting SAINTE CHAPELLE I'm obsessed with the glazed colors in stained glass windows.

Chartres has some of the finest stained glass and flying buttresses galore but one needs help with this huge, massive and magnificent cathedral.

I was very lucky indeed to catch brilliant, Chartres scholar, MALCOLM MILLER at his mid-day tour (1hr15 minutes - 10€ cash please). Show up INSIDE the church near the bookstore. At 11:55 I promise you'll be lead in the best possible way through a multitude of biblical stories and historic vignettes with great wit and knowledge.

Miller 'reads' Chartres for you. There was no paper or books and few read or could write when the church was rebuilt after the 1194 fire. The stained glass panels are full of drama and Miller is a masterful storyteller.FYI the panels are read bottom up and from left to right.

I couldn't resist drawing his lively, animated profile. Miller's been leading Chartres tours for 58 years and says he still learns something new every visit.

Do try to catch him. It will be an unforgettable experience. Or get his book!

I'm thinking of returning next week. FYI you can't reserve ahead unless you want a private tour. Just show up at 11:55. C'est comme ça.

I grabbed a quick salad across the street at Le Café Serpent 2, Cloître Notre-Dame

Service is fast and friendly. Besides I fell in love with their big teapot collection as soon as I saw it in the window.

I wish I hadn't wandered aimlessly around town in the morning, comme d'habitude seeking out the local ice cream..

But instead I should have headed over to the

CENTRE INTERNATIONAL DU VITRAIL, just behind the cathedral 5, rue du Cardinal Pie

A stunning collection of Renaissance stained glass awaits

Full explanations in clear English of how stained glass was processed, colored, baked.

Plus a room of all 176 facsimile panels from Chartres

Are illustrated and labeled.

You'll relive Malcolm Miller's vivid stories over again.

Especially interesting was a reconstructed portion of a Chartres panel. So much more is revealed up close you can't see inside the church.

As soon as I got home, I got out my paints. There's more yellow at Chartres then Sainte Chapelle perhaps.

Thank you for subscribing to the Paris Sketch letters and maps. Its fun painting your glazed watercolors. I've turned into quite the pilgrim seeking more stained glass.

Tomorrow I'm off the the cathedral at Reims. 

Let me know if you have any tips PBers.