Wednesday, September 09, 2015

Osiris: Egypt's Sunken treasures

Monday was the PRESS PREVIEW (so photos were allowed)for the new exhibit at INSTITUTE DU MONDE ARABE of OSIRIS, Egypt’s Sunken Mysteries on till Jan 31.
Dive into the depths of fascinating Egyptian civilization.
Enter the magic universe of underwater exploration.
An unprecedented exhibition of 250 objects that throws light on the discoveries by submarine exploration of the IEASM in Aboukir Bay, undertaken by Franck Goddio, director of the excavation and curator of the exhibition.
Revealed are the incredible remains of the temples of Thonis-Heracleion and Canopus where the most secret religious rites and processions took place.
Highlighting numerous objects bearing witness to a cult that has completely vanished today.
A god of the earth and vegetation, Osiris symbolized in his death the yearly drought and in his miraculous rebirth the periodic flooding of the Nile and the growth of grain. He was a god-king who was believed to have given Egypt civilization.
'Osiris was the first child of Nut and Geb, and therefore the brother of Seth, Nephthys, and Isis. He was married to his sister, Isis. He was also the father of Horus and Anubis. These traditions state that Nephthys(mother of Anubis) assumed the form of Isis, seduced him (perhaps with wine) and she became pregnant with Anubis'.
In the exhibit You are surrounded by films of the underwater excavation that add to the mystery inherent in these 250 objects.
Watch a short video of the excavation HERE.
I was reminded of the aquarium scene in film noir, THE LADY FROM SHANGHAI.
I'm always captivated by the sphinx.
Paris is loaded with sphinx from the Empire period. I'm greeted by a beauty when I come up from the Metro Sully-Morland on rue Celestine.
This wall photo of an Egyptian barque
Isn't so different than a small barque along banks of the Seine quite close to Institute du Monde Arabe, except the guy is waving at me and probably not Egyptian.
Lovely hand-blown glass perfume bottles from the exhibit's gift shop.
They don't have a facsimile of this exquisite Egyptian treasure.
But I picked up this lovely necklace and two pins(14€ each).
I did not, however avail myself of the Pharaoh bath ducks. 
Who has a bathtub in Paris? 
Osiris, Egypt's Sunken Treasures is a splendid, important Fall show.
Don't miss it!

Sunday, September 06, 2015

Basilique de Saint-Denis

Yesterday I went to the Basilica of Saint-Denis on the outskirts of Paris.
Ina Caro gives it a big chapter in her PARIS TO THE PAST. She suggests you see St.-Denis before visiting any other Gothic cathedral in France and rightly so.
*Catch Metro 13 at Saint-Lazare. About 20+ minutes later get off at stop Basilique de Saint-Denis. Caro mentions 'hold on to your purse' and so do others. Frankly I think this is an exaggeration. St. Denis is a working class, blue collar community not so different from where I lived previously in the 19th arrondissement. I really doubt petty crime is prevalent here. This is not the Eiffel tower. Don't be scared off visiting one of the magnificent cathedrals/monuments in Europe. The church is a 2-minute walk through a modern shopping complex. Make sure Carrefour supermarket is on your left. Soon you enter a large square with the cathedral on your left. Voila.
From the outside St. Denis is not all that impressive. But one step inside and you gasp.
The space is awe inspiring.
It's a pure, clear space with no deviations like Chartres, which you navigate in a circular route.
Notre Dame or Reims didn't effect me like Saint-Denis.
'The Gothic structure that stands today was begun in 1136 by Abbot Suger and not completed until the end of the 13th century. The church is an architectural landmark...considered to be the first major structure built in the Gothic style. The Abbey of Saint Denis was the burial site of the kings of France for centuries and has thus been referred to as the "royal necropolis of France." All but 3 of the monarchs of France from the 10th century until 1789 have their remains here'.
FYI Saint Denis is the patron saint of France and, according to legend, the first bishop of Paris. A simple shrine was originally erected at his burial place. Much more information HERE.
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You leave the main area to enter the necropolis behind the partition
A model of the cathedral and abbey in the old town of Saint Denis.
I recommend getting the excellent audio guide to tour the tombs.
'A funerary statue is a recumbent effigy of life-size statue sculptures dressed in their daily costume lying supine. It literally means “lying in repose”. Out of the 16 recumbent effigies commissioned by Saint Louis, 14 funerary statues remain today to demonstrate that the bold adventurous Philippe III, Isabel d’Aragon,Philippe VI, the stubborn Louis X and the infant king Jean 1st were all heir to the Capetian dynasty'.
Over 70 funerary recumbent statues and tombs marking the final resting places of most of France’s historical figures. All but 3 of the monarchs of France from the 10th century until 1789 have their remains here. 
Dogs representing fidelity are exposed at the foot of women on their tombs. Nevertheless here it may be taken as a representation of guide dogs in the underground realms of death. Lions are carved at the foot of men’s recumbent tombs representing bravery, strength, ferocity and valour.
Louis XVIII and Marie-Antoinette's tomb.
In the crypt there's an exhibit of royal funeral engravings to give you a sense of grandeur.
Abbot Suger ordered the first stain glass windows ever. I stand corrected. Thank you Deborah. Either Le Mans or Poitiers have the first stain glass. More cathedrals to visit! On the right the original 'Tree of Jesse' (l'arbre de Jessie). The bluish panels are being restored.
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Please add Saint-Denis to your must-visit lists. Words can't describe the experience. I can say the Taj Mahal doesn't hold a candle to St.-Denis.

Friday, September 04, 2015

La Rentree, Tour Jean sans Peur, les Pommes Française

It's that time of year in Paris - La Rentrée.
The kids are back. Getting off the Metro I nearly got run over by 4 racing kidlets scrambling for some empty seats. Their mom reminded them, "DOOCE-A-MENT"(gently). I haven't heard that word in 2 whole months. French kids were out of town building sand castles.
It's time to covet gorgeous school supplies specially designed for French kids.
Art supplies are on sale big time. I have to remind myself I do Not need another paintbox.
Families are out scarfing up colorful cahiers (notebooks). Papetterie are like rainbows.
This is a once a year event. Get it now or forgettaboutit.
The tournasol (sunflowers) are back in flower shops.
Ina Caro in PARIS TO THE PAST  talks about visiting Tour Jean Sans Peur at 20 rue Etienne Marcel. It's one of the last remaining bits of the original ramparts of Paris outside the Louvre. Each branch of this column/tree represents a Burgundian aristocratic family.
Look put the window of the tower and you'll see right into a French school playground, jump ropes and all.
I'm not tower climber so I didn't make it to the top of this one. But as part of my search for Medieval Paris and following in Ina Caro's footsteps, I felt obliged to venture up.
There's an exhibit on till 15 November ' The Medieval table'. This harvest scene looked Fallish..
Sheafs of wheat still decorate Paris restaurants and boulangeries to remind you where your croissant came from
The weather the 1st week of September has been absolutely glorious.
Fall transitional clothes are out for the OFG (Older French Girl) and the Ados (adolescents).
Scarfs are out too.
Apples and apple sauce are the flavor of the month.
My favorite tarte fine aux pommes is beckoning. Almost healthy since it's just a thin slice of crust loaded with thin slices of apple.
I get quizzical looks from the French when I mention the American tradition of 'Bringing an apple to the teacher' at the beginning of the school year. 'Won't her table be covered with apples?'
Never mind. The September Sketch Letter is full of French Fall apples plus a tarte fine and the Apple Lady from Marché Grenelle. I wanted to include the names of the French varieties but it looked awful according to the boys at my print shop. A scowl from them and I'm back at my drawing board.
I got interesting envelope stuffers including the concert schedule at Sainte-Chapelle this month.
This Fall's project - testing out new watercolor papers. 
This months gift-with-purchase of any subscription or renewal is a sample apple watercolor. I have a feeling I won't be switching but it's fun to experiment.