Monday, February 06, 2012

rue des Martyrs

Every single trip to Paris I meet up with my second-cousin, Kristine (an Older French Girl par excellence) for Sunday Brunch in Pigalle - she lives in the 9th.
 We always go to English-style Rose Bakery (my preference not hers) at 46, rue des Martyrs
 I always get their yummy mixed salade plate (14€). Kristine always gets the smoked saumon(14€) and we split.
 We never get dessert (le crumble, carrot cake, scones etc.) at Rose Bakery because Kristine (a retired dental surgeon) does not eat sweets except chocolate. In France chocolate is a separate food group.
 After we part, I always cross the street to patisserie Delmontel 39, rue des Martyrs.
And torture myself choosing among the gorgeous delectibles.
 A Sunday walk up rue des Martyrs is full of torture and delectibles.
 Like this tarte fine abricot from patisserie Landemaine.
 The food browsing potential on Martyrs is endless.
 Fromage/cheese? mais oui, beaucoup
 Seafood also, beaucoup.
 Terra Corsa at #42 is for Macaron Jill, married to a Corsican.
 You don't have to be a meat-eater to appreciate French boucherie in my opinion. Visit rue des Martyrs  between 10 - 2 on Sundays for a real Parisian neighborhood jaunt (not many tourists). But get to Rose Bakery before noon for brunch or wait in line for an hour.
See You next time Cousin Kristine!


  1. What a tweety bird. Rose Bakery is written up in this month's Cote Paris.

  2. Love this watercolor. :-) Happy pets. Xoxo

  3. Kristine looks like so much fun - sounds a great street, Carol - particularly that Corsican shop. Although Mother-in-Law fills up my stocks so much when she's over I could probably open my own with all the biscotti! ;-)

  4. Margaret/Claude9:37 AM

    I am forever indebted to you for your daily treats. Thank you for
    Paris Breakfast!

    My son and I particularly are smitten with 'Sacristan'.
    This seems to be a breakfast

    Any history or great pix of them or sources for them?

  5. Of course Jill...
    what was I thinking?
    That's what la Belle Mere are for isn't it.

  6. WOW! Carol.
    You should do a water color portrait of your wonderful Cuz. What an expressive, "I've been there done that thank you very much" charming face, and posture.
    Grat poost, as usual.

  7. Robynn in Paris9:42 AM

    Nice post! This is my neighborhood and I shop at many of the places you photographed. I had moved away from the Martyrs district for a couple of years but decided to move back because I missed this street so much. It's a treat for all the senses :-)

  8. Now this is what i call a REAL Parisian neighborhood. So many specialty shops, and you can walk everywhere, of course. I am glad you introduced used to your cousin Kristine. A lovely lady. Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)

  9. Hey there, Carol ;)
    Your posts always make me smile. This time it also made me snort. *In France chocolate is a separate food group* I can so appreciate that wisdom :P

  10. Lucinda9:49 AM

    'In France chocolate is a separate food group'

    How true..
    love it!

  11. 'In France chocolate is a separate food group'
    I learned that from
    'Bringing Up Bebe'
    tomorrow's post...

  12. Is that Kristine? Mais qu'elle est belle! That is the main reason I don't eat sweets.My teeth.(Thank le Bon Dieu..I am salty by preference)
    God Bless Her..She has such a kind face I bet she was great.
    Love the storefronts and your watercolor~

  13. Your comment about the separate French food group, chocolate, makes me feel So au courant! For years my breakfast of choice has been hot skim milk, coffee, sugar and chocolate . ... I call it cafe mocha.

  14. I like this neighborhood, has a down to earth feel. You are so lucky to meet up with your cousin this way.

  15. Viva la France, viva Chocolate as a separate food group!

    Wonderful stroll through a very inviting neighborhood. Who knows, one day I might just move there.

  16. How whimisical!
    I love to live a Parisian lifestyle vicariously through your blog :)

  17. Love your beautiful cousin Kristine who reminds me of a darling older friend of my aunts--Miss Colburn. She was from Brittany, married to an American diplomat, tiny and gorgeous--and thrown in the slammer for spitting on a Nazi in WWII! Miss Colburn was a pink cashmere wearing total delight with that lovely small French face like Kristine!

    Great post--per usual, Carol! Thank you!

  18. What a wonderful tradition. It makes me wonder if I have a second cousin in Paris. I hope so, but somehow doubt it's true. Everyone should have a second cousin in Paris....

  19. Lovely old lady!! :D

  20. Love the portrait photo of your cousin. What pizzaz!

  21. I love that opening shot! Perfect :)
    I think that I would be broke in one day with all of those shops!

  22. What a charming second Cousin you have. What a lovely ritual too. Now I really like the French if they have Chocolate as a food group. My kind of culture. :))))

  23. Ta cousine ,Kristine, tres chic et belle!
    Love all the shops, & your doggie painting too. I was reading the sequel to Chocolat ( I misplaced it so haven't finished) which is set in Montmartre, making me really dream of living in that part of Paris that is so village like-next best would be a visit -ah,well, PB will do excellently meanwhile.

  24. Le quartier où je fais mes courses à Paris,j'adore Rose Bakery.

    belle journée


  25. Rue des Martyrs is great. I wish I can find an appartment there and so I could try all the pastries :-)))

  26. Lovely, Carol--your cousin is lovely.

  27. Roger2:11 PM

    Sorry that you forgot to mention Sebastien Gaudard, in the #22 rue des Martyrs,
    probably one of the best pastry shop in the city, the best of the street for sure...
    (his specialty are le mille-feuilles, le 'Puit d'Amour' et le 'Mussipontin')


  28. Fantastique Carol....the apartment that we've leased is just around the corner from rue des Martyrs.....this will be my local marché. Wow.....I'll be in cooking heaven!!!


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