Our Lyon

 

Last Saturday morning we set off for an overnight in Lyon (7:34 am). Voila! in 2hr5 minutes we arrived ready to conquer French cuisine!

First stop, a short walk from train station Part-Dieux - Paul Bocuse Halles. So much praliné!(sugared almonds)a Lyonnaise classic.

A spin around will show you the Lyonnaise specialties (Saucisson de Lyon (sausage), Rosette lyonnaise, Saucisson brioché) you Must eat. Plenty of free tastes and all upper crust quality. 

Ever onward to our reserved lunch at Le Nord, one of Paul’s bouchons. 

I had the ‘fix or formule’ (32€). An incredible froth of mushroom soup with bits of foie gras, and baked Cod. Carolyn likes to be independent and ordered a French steak. We both had tarte citron meringue for dessert. A superb lunch. Not an intimidating place. All very relaxed locals. 

On to the old town/Vieux Ville. No way could we eat dinner, so we combed the tiny medieval streets studying menus for Sunday’s lunch like everyone else. 

Next day this little bouchon appealed (Vieux Lyon). I’m not sure you can get a bad meal in Lyon. 

My ‘fix’ lunch (21,90) was salade Lyonnaise (lettuce with bacon, croûtons and a poached egg.), classic quenelles(ground, poached pike). We shared the profiteroles with home-made vanilla ice cream😊 Carolyn had onion soupe.

Then more wandering.

Old Lyon has exquisite hidden alleyways and alcoves to explore.

Traditional Lyonnaise silk shops of course.

Everyone was carrying a candy bag from Francois Praulis, so we did too.

I wanted to see the Musee de Cinema et Miniatures

Which was a marvel and close by.

Lyon is known for Guignol, its own punch and judy show. We visited the musée des Marionettes too. Don’t miss the secret garden on the top floor. 

It’s 31 March and I am still working on the March letter art 💌 Last day to buy a watercolor and make a contribution to Ukraine Red Cross. For the few PB readers who misunderstood, I do not have your names or email addresses, much less access to your Paypal accounts. None of your funds were taken. Sorry if I gave that impression. The black cat skills of Cary Grant are not mine. I did once paint an oligarch’s yacht in Cannes if you want to see it. 

Coming home to the Seine never disappoints.

Reims et Champagne Mumm

It's Friday so this must be Reims, Champagne capitol of the world.

I thought I might escape a tasting but once you're there it seems de rigueur. Champagne MUMM is my alma mater so to speak. I did art work for MUMM 20 years ago.

Call the day/week ahead. You will need a reservation.

Even though I worked in the Champagne business for 2-3 years and stayed at Mumm's mansion, it is always interesting to take the cellar tour. Tasting their CORDON ROUGE BRUT was an delight end-of-tour.

The long, long dark underground cellar storing 25 million bottles is the perfect counterpart

To visit Reims Cathedral, above-ground wondrously high passage ways. You feel like an ant.

An overcast day turned absolutely beautiful.

Reims (rhymes with "chance" if you hit the "n" lightly) is merely 45 minutes away from Paris on the new special TGV.

Skip the self-tour audio guide. Unfortunately there is no riveting Malcolm Miller of Chartres to decipher this Gothic temple. But there are well-written explanation posts at each point of reference.

Upon entering the cathedral I could hear the faintest hint of choral singing.

In the Chagall chapel all the way back on the left, a lovely compilation of choral singing is playing. I hope it's played everyday. There is no CD available upfront in the shop sadly. The perfect companion for exploring Reims Cathedral or any cathedral I suspect.

My watercolor stains using reds and blues over a pale, pale yellow wash.

I've used the WATERCOLOR POCKET PALETTE for years for layering colors.

More stained glass of an edible sort rom Waida Patisserie

Back in the cathedral the very fine 'Rose' window is not to be missed.

A 'rose' window made up of chocolate bouchon filled with champagne.

Don't miss visiting MAISON FOSSIER, Home of the famous pink biscuits (le biscuits rose) you can dip into your Champagne and they won't crumble.

The word biscuit comes from bi-cuit (baked twice) and originally colored with carmine to hide the black specks of vanilla bean in the biscuits.

Along with all these other 'must-dos' do read Ina Cara's PARIS TO THE PAST. Thank you Jean for insisting. I even got the audio version. It's perfect for visits to France's Gothic cathedrals, fill of intriguing historic anecdotes and an aesthetic point of view as well.

I love how Caro reminds you to notice the half-Rose window at Gare de l'Est before you set off for Reims. Her book, full of details like that is my new BBF.

Still more watercolor stains for Paris letter/map subscribers/renewers. Here Ye all!