Weekend in Honfleur, musee Eugene Boudin

The Normandy Invasion continues. Last Saturday PBer Carolyn from Seattle joined me on the 8:09 am train from Gare St. Lazare to Trouville (2 hours). Then a 30 minute scenic bus ride. Et voila Honfleur.

Last week it was parasols. This week its boats. No wonder. Honfleur is noted for its beautiful boat basin lined with old houses, the vieux basin.

Its the birthplace of French Impressionism along the Seine. Turner, Corot, Jongking and especially Eugene Boudin who befriended Monet and took him 'en plein air' painting for the first time, draging him out of the studio into the luminous Norman light.

We stayed at chain hotel Ibis Styles Centre(119€). The walls had silhouettes of artists painting. Even the table was palette-shaped. My kind of place.

There are oodles of pretty shops selling everything caramel au beurre salé: candies, cookies, sauce. Plus Calvados, Cidre, Norman cheeses like Neufchatel and Camembert, the local apple juice is divine and, endless butter cookies. Basically you can eat yourself silly very easily in Honfleur.

Eating lunch and dinner out is remarkable cheap. An ample 3-course meal starts around 14€ with plenty of fresh seafood. I was happy as a clam. 

Reservations are not necessary and many are simple no-fuss mom-and-pop run establishments. Jill Colonna just wrote about visiting the higher end restaurants plus other sites in 10 Reasons to Visit Honfleur, Normandy appeared on Mad about Macarons exactly while I was there.

In no time at all you can escape to old, quiet cobble-stoned streets lined with split-timbered houses. *FYI take sturdy shoes for those cobblestones. 

I highly recommend visiting the Eugene Boudin museum, including a broad collection of local artists of Boudin's time as well as his sketches and paintings. Instant immersion into 19th century Honfleur. Nice scenic views over the town as well.

This week I fell overboard for ❤️ Honfleur. Have you been? 

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xxx💋Carolg et Bear 🐻 back in Paris

Summer Lobster Sale and Trouville-sur-Mer

Last Saturday I dipped my toes in the Atlantic at Trouville-sur-mer, Normandy. You must too soon. I know its been quiet around here. I've been drawing and painting a slew of lobster watercolors and now they're up on Etsy. Do take a look.

Grappling hand to claw for 5+ days. For a while I thought the lobster would escape uncaught in aquarelle...

The battle began in my room on the beach at Hotel Les Embrun. 

By the way I arrived with no hotel reservation on Saturday. Did I say delightful Trouville is just 2 hiurs away fom Paris? The local tourist office was not helpful. They suggested I find accomodation in Caen or back in Paris. What? She sent me off to a place that was already 'complet', Fortunately I spotted a post lady in the street and asked politely if she might have a room to rent? Or even a 'placard' (closet or armoir). We both giggled. She suggested I try the hotel around the corner. Bingo! They had a room and an even better one the following night. Now you know how to find a room in the height of the season. Just ask a post 📮 person.

Seafood is outstanding in Trouville.

The place to go is La Halle aux Poissons

Including 8 enormous seafood stands. Just make your choice.

Every crustation under the sun to choose from. They weight it and prepare your food on a bed of ice 🧊 with accompanying wine, champagne or water. Then serve you at tables just across from the stands. I ate here four times. Not expensive really. It depends on your choices. More pictures to come.

Come summer time you see cute old-fashioned cabanas packages in Paris shop windows.

You don't imagine they still exist like in Eugene Boudin's Trouville beach paintings.

But in fact they do. Enchanting.

And the colors!

I couldn't resist painting them. So much fun.

Beyond the beach is the boardwalk backed by simply wonderful 19th century architecture.

Many of the same houses Monet painted here

Big posters on the walls in Trouville remind you how it used to be.

In many cases only the swimwear has changed. The water is delightful. Come on in.

Back to the architecture built in the 1830s and onwards.

Parisians, artists, writers flocked here to holiday. They built such fanciful summer houses.

More summer homes back in the hills behind the beaches. Some very narrow but still wildly striped and decorated.

The view looking down on the beach/la plage. The streets above are all but deserted while everyone enjoys the beach. You can wander aimlessly admiring the houses.

Definitely consider the 2-hour train trip to Trouville, though July/August is jam-packed. What was I waiting for? 

Deauville is just across the narrow bay. I will do a post soon, but its a snobbier, more posh resort in my opinion. Not as relaxed or casual. Meantime grab a painted lobster 🦞 on Etsy. Its the season.

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