Christo et Jeanne-Claude, Pont Neuf Map

Audacious. Intrepid. The words comes to mind when thinking of Christo. Yet this exhibit is full of surprises. We think of the sculptor as a wrapper of major  monuments. His early small, whimsical works surprise like this child’s pull toy. From this view it looks like a huge Trojan horse.

Originally he painted portraits. Then ‘wrapped’ them. There are mysterious wrapped bundles. Christo refused to reveal what was inside. 

Early days he wrapped statues at Trocadero. The wrapped Pont Neuf hides a wonderful love story between Christo and Jeanne-Claude. 

J-C’s mother asked Christo to paint her portrait. She invited him to lunch. He didn't want to come. She insisted. there he met Jeanne-Claude. He invited her to see his sculptures in his 7th floor walk-up chambre de bonne. The hall light went out just as he opened the door. She was terrorized by his bundles. The rest is history❤️.Interestingly, they both had the same birth date. Meant to be!

We see the bridge isolated, wrapped in its monumentality. Not as an urban project with Parisians interacting, a baby rolling on the fabric, with traffic. Some Locals didn't like it. They complained, “What’s the point? Its not art! It cost too much money!” 

Christo raised all the $ himself from his drawings. No donations.

For 10 years he negotiated with French authorities and citizens for permission.

Again the Pont Neuf became  a lively gathering place, a city focal point as Henri IV envisioned it back in the 1600’s. Many visitors overlook the Pont Neuf in favor of more romantic Pont Alexandre. I did. I never went till this letter/map project except to cross over and think how long it took to get to the other side. I didn’t experience its monumentality, serenity, views.

The mini park below, Square de Vert Galant (noted in Vivian Swift’s book, Gardens of Awe and Folly) is one of Paris’ loveliest of pocket parks. Parisians know this. Its a haven. If you can not get to this extraordinary, uplifting exhibit, go to Pont Neuf next trip. You’ll need my Paris map😃Bear stays in the picture!🐻

Sunday in the Marais

Yesterday I finally got back in the 🏊‍♀️ Pool. And I finally got to the Christo et Jeanne-Claude exhibit at the Pompidou, which is fabulous, witty and inspiring. Don’t miss the movie if you go (and you live in Paris at the moment). Full story coming tomorrow. 

PBers, Parisians are wearing their masks. Its mandatory. Except for grumpy old men...this is a universality it seems😳 

Mostly they are black. Some have messages. Today I saw a woman wearing, ”PUTAIN LE VIRUS”. Oui madame. True when they are eating they take them off. 

Yesterday, after the exhibit I stopped at a little Vietnamese resto, Hanoi, on 41 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie. I need some Red Boat fish sauce. Et voila I can make this refreshing Goi Ga Bap Cai salade.

Impossible to go to the Marais without a stop into Eataly for a taste of Italia..

Plus its a good place to see what THEY are wearing...a goddess waltzing by stacks of sauce de tomate.

Long, sheer, petites fleurs printed dresses are ‘the look’ this summer in dark colors.

What to wear to Christo? Green silky pants.

Another long black dress.

The dog is not masked.

As always you can always wear all-black.By the Seine they are down to their skivies. It was hot on Sunday. I’m trying to catch up dear PBers for my long 2-week iPad hiatus. I wish it had been a vacance in Brittany... Please look in my ETSY Shop. And Please Stay Safe PBers ❤️🙏🐻

La Rentree, Les Paris Letters

 

Paris streets are filled with moms and dads taking kids back to l’ecole -> its La Rentrée.

Its La Rentrée/Return for me too. My ipad broke this time forever (RIP). I plunged headlong into a new ipad5 and steep learning curve. So happy to be back PBers!❤️

Meanwhile Bear 🐻 has been hanging out on Le Pont Neuf for the latest Paris letter and map. Admittedly we haven’t hung out there much but there’s tons of French history. The   bridge inaugurated in 1609, was a special project of Henri IV, who wanted to improve urban spaces for Parisians. It was the ‘Eiffel Tower’ of its day.  

You can catch a bateaux mouches downstairs, visit the swanky French mint, Monnaie de Paris and eat lunch on charming Place Dauphine, another Henri IV urban project.

Le Pont Neuf is the first all-stone, widest, longest bridge to connect the left and right banks. No buildings were allowed to upstruct views of the new Louvre.

These Neptune lampadaires/lampposts came later thanks to Les Halles architect, Victor Baltard. They light up the half-moon balconies where people sat to enjoy the Seine. Picnicking has a long tradition in Paris.

Bear 🐻 ate a nice lamb ragout at Basque, Ma Salle à Manger in Place Dauphine.

Bear 🐻 got a place of honor on the map.

For the letter I was inspired to find many artists painted🎨 the Pont Neuf in every kind of weather. Monet picked a rainy day. Albert Marquet painted it at night lit up spectacularly. Even Turner painted it from another bridge.

And of course Christo, after 8 years of petitions, wrapped it for 15 days. Et voila.

Both map and letter 💌 are in the post📮. Or you could subscribe on Etsy and get your own Pont Neuf till you get back to 🇫🇷 France. We’re thinking of you dear West Coast PBers ❤️🙏

La Nuit aux Invalides 2020 à Paris

Last night I was supposed to see the annual summer light show at l'Invalides with M&M. I was the one who saw the poster in the metro. I was the one who said, "Let's go!" We got our tickets a week ago. Then last night rolled around. It was all dark clouds and drizzle. On the way over to M&M's in my head I was singing, "I DON'T WANNA, don't wanna, don't wanna..." Truth is I hate going out at night. I'm an "extreme lark" the Guardian says.I wake up all bouncy at 3:30 AM, but keel into bed at 8-9 PM comatose. Any Extreme Larks out there? Let's talk at 3:30 AM 

Yesterday I even ate a preparatory coffee ice cream cone to keep me up late. It works. No kidding. At M&M's...she was fence-sitting too. Will it rain or won't it? Should we or shouldn't we? Look! its clearing up over there! M&M: "I hate to waste the money." 

Me: "I'll pay another 25€ Not to go!" 

Meredith: “If I call an Ubber? I'll pay!" 

We were going to take Bus 69. 

I said,"I will escort you to your car." 

Last words from Meredith, "Go take pictures along the Seine"

I did.

First stop Pylone's window across the street. 

Flowers are sleeping in Patrick Allen's window. 

More Summer hats. 

Late night eaters at Les Fous De l'Iles. 

Ice cream eaters at Pom'Cannelle. 

Crossing Pont Marie.

Meredith Mullins sent me a picture. 

“Wish you were here.” 

I was pretty OK at my own Nuit de Lumiere show. 

Please share this post with a friend. 

Please take a look: Paris letters and Maps 💌in my Etsy shop. 

Please Stay well PBers ❤️🐻

La Cafe de la Mairie, Chanel bonus

This last week I've been running 🏃‍♀️

All over Paris looking for large brown cardboard envelopes.

No luck. So today I ordered 100 envelopes online.

A couple weeks ago 

I went back to your favorite breakfast café, Cafe de la Mairie.

Since then I've been trying 

To paint their pretty coffee cup. 

Not much luck there either.

I'm ready to throw in the torchon/towel and just relax like this French gal. I need a dog...

I got swimmer's haircut because they turned off the hairdryers at the pool. My swimmer's body is back-ordered.

This Pylones Summery turban would be cute, but maybe not with a mask...

Today in BHV I was shooting this ginormous bottle of Chanel Gabrielle.Naturally the sales gent came running over. "Puis-je vous aider/can I help you?" I asked "How much is it?" He said something like "€2,000+." I said, "I'll take 2 bottles s'il vous plait" He said, "deux bouteilles, et voila!" I said, "Its a cadeau/gift." He said, "Un cadeau. Bien sur". "A cadeau for me." "Mais oui, bien sur," he said. By this time we were both giggling... "Oh just one thing," I said, "can you change the name (Gabrielle) and put my name on it?" "Ah...non. Non, non, non! Pas possible!" "Ah..dommage,"I said. End of story.

But you dear PBers can have your name on a bottle with a subscription to Paris Maps/Letters. Pas de problem. Crossing my bridge 3 generations of Parisiennes. Toute en blue marine/all in navy blue. Please stay well and cool dear PBers. Paris is waiting for you❤️💋🐻