Heading off to places no one much goes to in Paris can be a trip.
The Butte aux Cailles in the 13th arrondissement is one of those places. More a hidden village than a touristic haunt, it's a step back in time like Woody's Midnight In Paris.
The buildings are small. The architecture idiosyncratic. The cobblestone streets narrow and quirky.
Paris doesn't get more villagey than this. I'm a fan of the 13th's big chlorine-free pool.
Otherwise I might have missed this adventure to the hinterlands.
After a swim nothing is bettter than a light lunch at L'Oisive The 5 minutes away.
The food is delicious.
Ex-pat owner Aimee (lurking behind her home-made cakes) started this cafe on her own and it's a delight.
Walls of yellow tea canisters are the perfect decor.
A wall full of colorful yarns is for the kniters who frequent L'Oisive The.
While parents knit and chat, les enfants play quietly on the floor and crayon. The atmosphere could not be more homey and friendly.
Parisian Ines de la Fressange has chosen the Butte aux Cailles to stroll around this month, offering much insider info on charming shops I missed. Take a look and consider.
I just down-loaded this little book, Forever Paris:25 Walks in the Footsteps of Chanel, Hemingway, Picasso and More.
The 'more' includes:
Edith Piaf, Charles de Gaulle, Josephine Baker, Auguste Rodin, Cartier-Bresson, George Sand, Napoleon, Balzac, Simone de Beauvoir, Victor Hugo, Marie Antoinette (with spin out at Versailles), YSL, Henry Miller and Audrey Hepburn(she loved Angelina).
And our fabulous Julia Child (rue Cler was her shopping street)!
Could you ask for anything more?
It's a mostly black and white book so perfect for your Kindle to have handy as you promenade around Paree.
It's a mostly black and white book so perfect for your Kindle to have handy as you promenade around Paree.
Get out and walk this weekend.
Pourquoi pas?
Pourquoi pas?
Bon Weekend!
This is true insider information -- Paris backstage! Thank you for the peek into a side of Paris' personality that I did not know about!
ReplyDeleteHi Carol! Thank you so much for this tip, because I am always asking my Paris friends about places like this. Your lunch looks fantastic, by-the-way! Also, good for you seeking out those chlorine-free pools! I will be downloading this book, too. I am not sure walking outside will be much in the plans this weekend as we are having historically high temps here! ARGH! I am a bit more of a winter girl, anyway :) You have a good weekend, though!
ReplyDeleteThat little girl:) With her furry friend..too cute.
ReplyDeleteThe day I go I will be perusing your blog entries with a fine tooth comb..again and again..making lists.
Love Julia..Love the Kindle..
Bon Weekend for sure~
very inspiring little walking itinerary through the butte aux cailles. and conveniently right in my arrondissement!
ReplyDeletebon weekend !
Karina
www.mademoiselleonthemetro.blogspot.com
SOME PEOPLE live in the right arrondissement!
DeleteLucky Duck
A Lovely post. Love the cafe with the yarns, for knitters !! Enjoy your Weekend !
ReplyDeleteEver so charming ♥
ReplyDeleteThat's great to know! I love your shots of Paris and inhabitants, but it does usually look very populated. This is a nice change - it's nice to know that there is a quiet corner.
ReplyDeleteHave a great weekend!
Thank you, once again, for the info and also for bringing more of Paris to us. Thanks for introducing me to Les carnets d'Inez...I will go to Le Butte aux Cailles on a future trip...Charming café...Bon week-end to you, Rita
ReplyDeleteGet out and walk this weekend???? ROFL! We are right in the middle of a heat wave...104 - 101 -103 -100 ...Still, I will attempt to get up at seven when it will only be in the 80's. And I will dream of walking in Paris in the fall, with rain.
ReplyDeletethere is rain year round in Paris.
DeleteNo need to wait for the Fall.
I've seen the sun shining and yet it was raining - an essential ingredient.
So nice Carol to read about the less well known and frequented spots.
ReplyDeleteBut that pool, just wonderful
Carol, as always, your deep Parisian insights are so welcome. I did know about L'Oisive The, but am glad to learn a bit more about Butte-Aux-Cailles.
ReplyDeleteThe beautiful Ines is a wonderful guide to wonderful places.
Merci! xo
I haven't tried l'Oisivethé yet and am immediately adding it to my to-do :)
ReplyDeleteLove the video Carol... what a voice! xv
ReplyDeleteMerci PB~
ReplyDeleteThis neighborhood has been on my 'to see' list for the last 3 trips....now I have an idea of what to expect. It's a MUST for the next trip.
Suzanne
I have been there a few times, and we went to Aimee's tea shop :-) I have quite a few photos of the surrounding area, including a church, Saint Annes .. :-)
ReplyDeleteDidn't we meetup there 6 years ago Anne?
DeleteSorry, I first went there in April 2009 to meet bloggers, but Aimee was not feeling well, she was expecting her second child, and one of her staff was off, so we couldn't eat there then , so we all went up the road somewhere, not far from there, all 14 of us, and two from Australia, who now live in the UK.
ReplyDeleteI know it well............
ReplyDeleteLove the little cafe and all the yarn and darling kids. What a fun little village inside of Paris. I have learned things here I would never have known about Paris. I never realized it was so big in the first place much less how different it can be within itself. Another great post.
ReplyDeleteAh the lovable and enchanting Paris. I've notices from a lot of bloggers that there is no bad shot in any picture taken in Paris location.
ReplyDeleteEd Butowsky
Happy to see that you found your way to a yet perhaps less "chic", but very charming area! :-)
ReplyDeleteHa
DeleteYou're a reverse SNOB!
I did go for a walk, here in the swampy heat that is southern Minnesota - it was still over 80 degrees at 9:00 p.m.
ReplyDeleteMUCH rather a stroll along rue Cler!