While out walking Paris’ small back streets with my neighbor Marc (who is probably swimming this minute in the ocean in Marsailles…
He let drop that once a week he walks to the cemetery Père Lachaise
What? Why? He loves cemetaries he said. Oh… A seed was planted. On New Year’s Day I set off for Père Lachaise. The 69 bus is an easy way to get there. I was not about to go on foot. Plenty of walking once there right?
In general I avoid cemeteries like the plague. My father instilled in us a deep sense of superstition: no black cats, no walking under ladders, we must spit 3 X when passing a cemetery etc.
I could be wrong. I had no map or guide for Père Lachaise.
But it does seem fitting the first tomb I notice is 🥮 pastry-related.
I digress…some of the famous people buried here: Guillaume Apollinaire, Honoré de Balzac, Colette, Frédéric Chopin, Jean-François Jean de La Fontaine, Édith Piaf, Champollion, Yves Montand, Simone Signoret, Molière, Alfred de Musset, Camille Pissarro, Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde to name a few.
Essential background info - the cemetery when it was opened in 1804, was not a desirable place to be buried since it was on the outskirts of Paris, bordering the 20th arr.
Only 13 people were buried there. The clever administrators decided to ‘import’ people of note, Jean de la Fontaine, Molière, and Heloise and Abelard.
Suddenly everyone was clamoring. Now over one million are buried there and 3,000,000 visit every year.
With all my hesitancy and trepidation, my visit was exquisite, even in the drizzle with bare, wintry trees. So much like visiting a poetic sculpture garden. Highly recommended if you too have been avoiding Père Lachaise like the plague 😊 Of course I discovered the cemetery map as I was exiting…
I stopped in for a bite at a boulangerie on rue de Roquette, now owned by Land & Monkeys. Also recommended👍
While sitting eating, I remembered Tintin l’Adventure Immersive was playing a short walk away at l’Atelier des Lumieres.
I am a big fan of Hergé’s Tintin. What a master draftsman.
I am about to join the club Susan…though there is a special beauty to Pėre Lachaise’s winding and divergent paths that few others can compete with I bet.
I went there . I enjoy seeing tombs of the famous . I especially remember Chopin and Bizet as I was in Carmen in San Francisco Opera..you get a special feeling being so close.
My grandmother instilled a love of cemeteries in me when I was small, and they're still my favourite places to visit: art, history, social nuances...its all there! Have promised myself a visit to Pere Lechaise when I come to Paris!
This was fun! I like cemeteries and Tintin but not the rain. It probably depends how you grew up, we used to walk with our parents through the cemetery in our small town growing up so I quite like walking around them. I’ve been to Pere Lachaise a while ago but bought a map to find the graves of famous people and some favourite composers, but sometimes it was still hard to find them!
I tried to go to a cemetery on each one of my trips to Paris. They are beautiful and I was impressed by the way the family maintained their loved one’s grave. At Pere Lachaise I had a friend who was living in Paris at the time & a map. Did you see the graves of Abelard & Heloise? Now that is a story! 🗼❤️
My, you have been busy, Carol! Paris has so much to offer. We are regular walkers at Concord Ma, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. They can be quite peaceful places to walk. Père Léchais is phenomenal. Bonne année!
Oh, Tintin at the Atelier? That would be fabuous! So magical. I've only been to the cemetery at Montmartre which, while not as large as Pere Lachaise, has its share of luminaries too. And yes, rather like a lovely sculpture garden. The lobster rolls look delish -- and such a wonderful way to remember a dear friend. Happy New Year, Carol.
I would like to visit Pere Lachaise, I have been to Cimetiere Montmartre though and it has many interesting monuments there. Again, lots of walking & take a map. I didn't and was sure I would be in there for hours.
It is a dreary day out my window too. January and February are great months for catching up. I have always loved walking in cemeteries. Especially the ones with monuments.
Another fascinating post Carol. Père Lachaise certainly has some famous people buried there and it would be interesting to see some of their grave sites if you ever go back again.The view from your Paris window on New Years day was beautiful with the lighting and clouds. Just lovely. Enjoyed seeing the Tintin exhibit too. -Suzanne P.
Happy New Year, Carol. I love cemetaries and Paris has the absolute best, with Pere Lachaise at the top of the list. I haven't been to Passy so that's on my list for next trip. If you get the opportunity go to Picpus - it's tiny and Lafayette is buried there. Near Republique.
The last time I was in Paris was near Halloween of 2012, and all the cemeteries were filled with blossoms. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to explore, but as I walked by them, I marveled at the huge amounts of flowers. I hope you go back around this time next year and see the beautiful fall colors.
In the US we had a period of garden or park cemeteries. Workers from the city on their one day off could find fresh air, openness, grass to picnic on and opportunity to exercise on the pathways. Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Va has been planted with period roses, for example, and is worth a visit.
I always enjoy your posts and frankly envy your opportunity to walk in Paris. I love walking in cemeteries, and the year I lived in Cambridge, MA, I often walked in Mt. Auburn Cemetery, a real beauty. I’m glad you expanded your walking itinerary to include Pere Lachaise. Ann
I love cemeteries and Pere Lachaise has been on my list for so long, to visit Oscar Wilde and so many others. It looks fabulous. The view from your window is so romantice, so Paris eve in the rain.
Carol, I love looking at your posts! It's like living in Paris. A bit of discovery every day. Thank you. I love cemeteries and there are some fabulous cemeteries in Paris, big and small. My husband and I always try to see old, noted cemeteries in any new city we visit if it works out. They are usually beautiful and interesting. I also think of it as paying respect in a way to the people that have passed - particularly the people that are not famous.
One April over a decade ago I spent my 60th birthday in Paris, at Père Lachaise cemetery. It felt like the thing to do -- I was entering a new phase of my life. It's an enormous place, with so many different kinds of memorials and tombs that it took us all day to visit. En route I'd bought ham and cheese on baguettes, and although there weren't many places to sit, we did find a picturesque bench in the shade. So many famous people, and so many beautiful monuments. I remember Oscar Wilde's memorial which was covered in lipstick kisses. That was over a decade ago, and I still love visiting cemeteries when travelling. Such interesting places. Thanks for bringing those memories back to me.
Re Tintin, I heartily recommend checking out jcdefline on Instagram. He’s a Paris artist and really has the Herge vibe down. He illustrates his family vacations a la Tintin book covers —in addition to many many other wonderful works. If you’re unfamiliar….check him out!
IF the size of Père LaChaise is intimidating - start out with a small cemetery that's in the shadow of la Tour Eiffel: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passy_Cemetery It's spectacular!
Did anyone notice the great bear head graphic in the metro photo with the harp player ? I can make out Columbus but not what the word on the bottom part says ?
I love cemeteries. So much history.
ReplyDeleteI am about to join the club Susan…though there is a special beauty to Pėre Lachaise’s winding and divergent paths that few others can compete with I bet.
DeleteI went there . I enjoy seeing tombs of the famous . I especially remember Chopin and Bizet as I was in Carmen in San Francisco Opera..you get a special feeling being so close.
ReplyDeleteMy grandmother instilled a love of cemeteries in me when I was small, and they're still my favourite places to visit: art, history, social nuances...its all there! Have promised myself a visit to Pere Lechaise when I come to Paris!
ReplyDeleteLet me know of you want company Tania. I have a lot to learn.
DeleteI wish I knew how to subscribe to your blog Tonia…did you make the painting?👏👏
DeleteI too would like to know how to subscribe, Tonia. Went to the site, kept trying. The secret eludes me.
DeleteTonia is more advanced than us :))
DeleteTry: https://www.lifeinsmallbites.uk/ there is a subscription area there.
DeleteYes I saw it…but what is Atom etc.? Terrifying comme d’habitude 🍾
DeleteWe went to Pere Lachaise on All Saints Day. Place was very busy. Easy to find the famous graves; you just look for a crowd.
ReplyDeleteMorrison’s is such a disappointment! His bust is horrible! Still, the place is lovely and interesting. Cindy
ReplyDeleteMarc will be my 2023 imaginary friend. More adventures please.
ReplyDeleteVery good idea Sally if he stays here a while
DeleteThis was fun! I like cemeteries and Tintin but not the rain. It probably depends how you grew up, we used to walk with our parents through the cemetery in our small town growing up so I quite like walking around them. I’ve been to Pere Lachaise a while ago but bought a map to find the graves of famous people and some favourite composers, but sometimes it was still hard to find them!
ReplyDeleteIt was light drizzle not pouring rain. Some people will put up an umbrellas at the slightest spritz. British mist, good for the complexion 😊
DeleteI tried to go to a cemetery on each one of my trips to Paris. They are beautiful and I was impressed by the way the family maintained their loved one’s grave. At Pere Lachaise I had a friend who was living in Paris at the time & a map. Did you see the graves of Abelard & Heloise? Now that is a story! 🗼❤️
ReplyDeleteMy, you have been busy, Carol! Paris has so much to offer. We are regular walkers at Concord Ma, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. They can be quite peaceful places to walk. Père Léchais is phenomenal. Bonne année!
ReplyDeleteOh, Tintin at the Atelier? That would be fabuous! So magical. I've only been to the cemetery at Montmartre which, while not as large as Pere Lachaise, has its share of luminaries too. And yes, rather like a lovely sculpture garden. The lobster rolls look delish -- and such a wonderful way to remember a dear friend. Happy New Year, Carol.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jeanie ❤️ Adding Montmartre to the list
DeleteI would like to visit Pere Lachaise, I have been to Cimetiere Montmartre though and it has many interesting monuments there. Again, lots of walking & take a map. I didn't and was sure I would be in there for hours.
ReplyDeleteThe last photo - of the view from your apartment actually looks like a painting! Very beautiful and lovely lighting. Abbie
ReplyDeleteIt is a dreary day out my window too. January and February are great months for catching up. I have always loved walking in cemeteries. Especially the ones with monuments.
ReplyDeleteAnother fascinating post Carol. Père Lachaise certainly has some famous people buried there and it would be interesting to see some of their grave sites if you ever go back again.The view from your Paris window on New Years day was beautiful with the lighting and clouds. Just lovely. Enjoyed seeing the Tintin exhibit too. -Suzanne P.
ReplyDeleteHappy New Year, Carol. I love cemetaries and Paris has the absolute best, with Pere Lachaise at the top of the list. I haven't been to Passy so that's on my list for next trip. If you get the opportunity go to Picpus - it's tiny and Lafayette is buried there. Near Republique.
ReplyDeleteThe last time I was in Paris was near Halloween of 2012, and all the cemeteries were filled with blossoms. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to explore, but as I walked by them, I marveled at the huge amounts of flowers. I hope you go back around this time next year and see the beautiful fall colors.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the tip 👏 I will def go!
DeleteIn the US we had a period of garden or park cemeteries. Workers from the city on their one day off could find fresh air, openness, grass to picnic on and opportunity to exercise on the pathways. Hollywood Cemetery in Richmond, Va has been planted with period roses, for example, and is worth a visit.
ReplyDeleteCarol, I remember visiting the grave of Gertrude Stein and her partner Alice B. Toklas...quite a famous couple in their day!
ReplyDeleteFirst of all, I love your posts!
ReplyDeleteI love looking at the photos of Paris and dreaming of returning one day. Jamie Cat Callan
Please come back Jamie 🙏
DeleteIf you ever return to Pere Lachaise up-load Rick Steve's website, there is a map to some of the most famous deceased. Penny
ReplyDeleteThanks for excellent info
DeleteI always enjoy your posts and frankly envy your opportunity to walk in Paris. I love walking in cemeteries, and the year I lived in Cambridge, MA, I often walked in Mt. Auburn Cemetery, a real beauty. I’m glad you expanded your walking itinerary to include Pere Lachaise. Ann
Deletehttps://classroom.ricksteves.com/videos/pere-lachaise-cemetery-in-paris
DeleteS Ricks Audio Tour:
Deletehttps://www.mixcloud.com/rickstevesparis/p%C3%A8re-lachaise-cemetery-audio-tour/
I love cemeteries and Pere Lachaise has been on my list for so long, to visit Oscar Wilde and so many others. It looks fabulous. The view from your window is so romantice, so Paris eve in the rain.
ReplyDeleteHow was that Paris Brest?
ReplyDeleteThat was a very long time ago…buried & gone :))
DeleteCarol, I love looking at your posts! It's like living in Paris. A bit of discovery every day. Thank you. I love cemeteries and there are some fabulous cemeteries in Paris, big and small. My husband and I always try to see old, noted cemeteries in any new city we visit if it works out. They are usually beautiful and interesting. I also think of it as paying respect in a way to the people that have passed - particularly the people that are not famous.
ReplyDeleteWonderful idea. Thank you ❤️ I agree on not seeking out the famous
DeleteOne April over a decade ago I spent my 60th birthday in Paris, at Père Lachaise cemetery. It felt like the thing to do -- I was entering a new phase of my life. It's an enormous place, with so many different kinds of memorials and tombs that it took us all day to visit. En route I'd bought ham and cheese on baguettes, and although there weren't many places to sit, we did find a picturesque bench in the shade. So many famous people, and so many beautiful monuments. I remember Oscar Wilde's memorial which was covered in lipstick kisses. That was over a decade ago, and I still love visiting cemeteries when travelling. Such interesting places. Thanks for bringing those memories back to me.
ReplyDeleteRe Tintin, I heartily recommend checking out jcdefline on Instagram. He’s a Paris artist and really has the Herge vibe down. He illustrates his family vacations a la Tintin book covers —in addition to many many other wonderful works. If you’re unfamiliar….check him out!
ReplyDeleteYes, very fun !
DeleteYou might like Oakland Cemetery in Atlanta -- a Victorian graveyard with the same park-like feel
DeleteIndeed I may 😊 I am new to cemetery jaunts
DeleteIF the size of Père LaChaise is intimidating - start out with a small cemetery that's in the shadow of la Tour Eiffel: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passy_Cemetery
ReplyDeleteIt's spectacular!
Thank you. Passy Cimetière It’s near Trocadero and has beautiful sculptures
DeleteDid anyone notice the great bear head graphic in the metro photo with the harp player ? I can make out Columbus but not what the word on the bottom part says ?
ReplyDeleteThat was a cafe chain Linda 🐻
DeleteMerci I really like the logo 🐻👍💗
Delete