On my Saturday one-day jaunt to Lyon I was lucky to have friendly neighbors. More on INSTAGRAM. Upon arrival buy a day ticket (5,80) good on bus, tram, subway.
Then walk about 10 minutes to Lyon's fabulous indoor marché on cours Lafayette. This has changed and moved since I last visited.
Full of la creme de la creme luxury food brands, better than Paris' La Grand Epicerie any day of the week. Both oatisserie SEVE and BOUILLET of RELAIS DESSERTS are there. Jambon de Bellota Bellota, many MOF fromageries.
But first a browse of the lush, perfect pastries.
Turn away if you're off sugar
Voisin of Lyon's pillowy candies in their distinctive emerald green velvety boxes.
A must-taste Lyonaise treat - gateaux and tarte aux pralines roses
There is no rose to speak of but red sugared crushed almonds top a thin buttery sable crust
Yes I ate one of the thin red glossy cookies. You used to be able to find them at boulangerie Jocteur near Invalides. Now you must go to the source in the Lyon marché.
Time for brunch
6 gillardeau oysters plus some bulot otherwise known as welks in the UK. There are many restaurants inside the marché making it an easy lunch stop.
Beautiful blue Breton lobsters at the poissoniere.
I got a sampling of miniature pastries from Seve..just a bite of each one or so. Really you're better off getting the full size individual then being so greedy. C'est de trop!
Exquisite cheeses on display.
Everything is exquisite at les halles. This is not your average French marché at all.
Many homages to recently passed away PAUL BOCUSE. He knew all the purveyors and showed up regularly for coffee every Saturday morning at 7 am. coming home on the TGV I sketched my abducted oyster shells...a souvenir of Lyon. Thanks for reading Parisbreakfast. If you'd like to subscribe to Parisbreakfast letters and maps please visit my Etsy shop. And please keep checking out my Instagram. Where's my next train?
A very brief note after skimming your latest wonderful blog. I want to be 100% sure you know about 2 places in Lyon—we were lucky enough to have been there two months ago. Bernachon’s chocs are one thing but their caramel Kalouga bars are to die for! I sampled 9+ different chocolates in May when we were in Paris for one week. This Bernachon’s Kalouga caramel bar was by far the best! (A close second was Jesn Charles Rochoux’s caramelized hazelnut choc. bar (the chocolat noir AND the chocolat lait). The Kalouga story is that David Lebovitz loved them and begged Bernachon to resume making them (they are gooey, but who cares?) when they discontinued them. Thank heavens B. agreed to do so. One can buy them at B. in Lyon, and only at one other place: L’Etoile d’Or, in Paris. DIVINE!! Both places sell out of them quickly, though.
Second, in Old Town Lyon there is a terrific ice cream shop. I think it’s called Terre Adélice.
I'm saving the ice cream place for next trip. The caramel bars are Absolutely off limits for me...I have tasted both naturally. Living in France can be hazardous to one's bottom line :(( But always good to know about anyway. Thanks Dee Dee!
The gateaux looks very much like the Praluline from Praulus in Paris - one of the most delicious things in the world. After we discovered it, we had it for breakfast every day and brought the large one home.
Its exactly the same gateau Suki. They give away samples at the salon du Chocolat and people go nuts tasting it. On certain Saturdays the shop will sell more than 800 Pralulines! A rich brioche flavored with pieces of pralines made in-house: Valencia almonds and Piedmont hazelnuts coated in rose sugar and then cracked. The addition of these rosy nut bits adding a unique flavor and texture to make the creation so special! The Praluline is regularly sent to enthusiasts over the world (USA, Japan, Sweden...) This star of the Maison Pralus has also become a culinary ambassador for the region of Roanne.....90 km northwest of Lyon.
The story goes:In the 18th century, a Lyonnais pastry chef was apparently inspired by the rose gardens in the Rhône region and tinted his pralines in a similar pink in his copper-mixing machine. This proved to be a hit with customers and the rose-coloured praline tart was born. Whatever the true story, these delicious classics are a must try for any gourmand.
Variations of this French specialty These sugar-coated almonds form the core of many praline-based treats, which are the perfect mid-afternoon goûter or dessert for those with a sweet tooth.
Nearly all bouchons in Lyon will serve a tarte aux pralines for dessert. Crushed and cooked with cream, pralines add a nutty crunchiness to the irresistibly sweet and gooey filling that will keep your mouth glued shut until dinner time.
Another well-known praline-inspired speciality is the brioche aux pralines, which was made famous by baker Auguste Pralus in 1955, coining it as the ‘Praluline’. You may also see this called a brioche de Saint-Genix, which comes from Saint-Genix-sur-Guiers in the Rhône-Alpes region. Other combinations you may want to try are praline cake, biscotti, meringue, ice-cream and even praline chocolate mousse. https://www.myfrenchlife.org/2014/10/13/praline-roses-lyon/
When I was in college, I heard of students who went to Europe for the summer and got special railroad passes which they used for sleeping overnite on trains instead of getting a hotel room. Your train work reminded me of them...you could give up your apartment! Paint all day on the train and sleep all night!
I had a Eurail pass a couple of times! Fun adventures. Trains took longer to get places so you could sleep on the train with one open to be sure noone took yr stuff while you snoozed...zzzzzz
Thanks for the trip to Lyon, obviously I need to visit these markets there next time I'm in France! (We have a great market here in Adelaide) I would get the selection of mini cakes too - so glad you did, they all look delicious. I didn’t know they made bread/desserts out of sugar coated peanuts! Happy train tripping!
True art. Just a different medium....food. Why not? For the eyes and the mouth.
ReplyDeleteYes these top foodies are artistes.
DeleteDesserts too beautiful to eat!
Never an idle moment..love how you find art everywhere and paint it:)
ReplyDeleteSo many idle moments and all spent nibbling...munch munch
DeleteDid you taste the creamy "Saint Marcellin"? If not, you need to go back!
ReplyDeleteNow you tell me!
DeleteI'm catching the next train back to Lyon!!
Mille merci
I.loved this one. This hall is spectacular and would be impossible to see in one day. I would have to eating my way for days...
ReplyDeletePlease let me know when you win the lottery Lynn and I will gladly join you !
DeleteI didnt even notice there was THREE floors!
Another feast for the eyes. Thank you again.
ReplyDeleteThank the French !
DeleteThey have a long tradition of chasing beauty.
I am salivating! Such beautiful fare. Glad you had a fine time.
ReplyDeleteIts interesting...at first glance the halles seems very dark.
DeleteBut all the lights are aimed at the food!
Ah ha!
A very brief note after skimming your latest wonderful blog.
ReplyDeleteI want to be 100% sure you know about 2 places in Lyon—we were lucky enough to have been there two months ago. Bernachon’s chocs are one thing but their caramel Kalouga bars are to die for! I sampled 9+ different chocolates in May when we were in Paris for one week. This Bernachon’s Kalouga caramel bar was by far the best! (A close second was Jesn Charles Rochoux’s caramelized hazelnut choc. bar (the chocolat noir AND the chocolat lait). The Kalouga story is that David Lebovitz loved them and begged Bernachon to resume making them (they are gooey, but who cares?) when they discontinued them. Thank heavens B. agreed to do so. One can buy them at B. in Lyon, and only at one other place: L’Etoile d’Or, in Paris. DIVINE!! Both places sell out of them quickly, though.
Second, in Old Town Lyon there is a terrific ice cream shop. I think it’s called Terre Adélice.
I'm saving the ice cream place for next trip.
DeleteThe caramel bars are Absolutely off limits for me...I have tasted both naturally.
Living in France can be hazardous to one's bottom line :((
But always good to know about anyway. Thanks Dee Dee!
Terre Adelice GLACIER LYON
Delete1, place de la Baleine
69005 Lyon
I was so close and yet so far...
The gateaux looks very much like the Praluline from Praulus in Paris - one of the most delicious things in the world. After we discovered it, we had it for breakfast every day and brought the large one home.
ReplyDeleteIts exactly the same gateau Suki. They give away samples at the salon du Chocolat and people go nuts tasting it. On certain Saturdays the shop will sell more than 800 Pralulines! A rich brioche flavored with pieces of pralines made in-house: Valencia almonds and Piedmont hazelnuts coated in rose sugar and then cracked. The addition of these rosy nut bits adding a unique flavor and texture to make the creation so special! The Praluline is regularly sent to enthusiasts over the world (USA, Japan, Sweden...)
DeleteThis star of the Maison Pralus has also become a culinary ambassador for the region of Roanne.....90 km northwest of Lyon.
The story goes:In the 18th century, a Lyonnais pastry chef was apparently inspired by the rose gardens in the Rhône region and tinted his pralines in a similar pink in his copper-mixing machine. This proved to be a hit with customers and the rose-coloured praline tart was born.
DeleteWhatever the true story, these delicious classics are a must try for any gourmand.
Variations of this French specialty
These sugar-coated almonds form the core of many praline-based treats, which are the perfect mid-afternoon goûter or dessert for those with a sweet tooth.
Nearly all bouchons in Lyon will serve a tarte aux pralines for dessert. Crushed and cooked with cream, pralines add a nutty crunchiness to the irresistibly sweet and gooey filling that will keep your mouth glued shut until dinner time.
Another well-known praline-inspired speciality is the brioche aux pralines, which was made famous by baker Auguste Pralus in 1955, coining it as the ‘Praluline’. You may also see this called a brioche de Saint-Genix, which comes from Saint-Genix-sur-Guiers in the Rhône-Alpes region. Other combinations you may want to try are praline cake, biscotti, meringue, ice-cream and even praline chocolate mousse.
https://www.myfrenchlife.org/2014/10/13/praline-roses-lyon/
When I was in college, I heard of students who went to Europe for the summer and got special railroad passes which they used for sleeping overnite on trains instead of getting a hotel room. Your train work reminded me of them...you could give up your apartment!
ReplyDeletePaint all day on the train and sleep all night!
I had a Eurail pass a couple of times!
DeleteFun adventures. Trains took longer to get places so you could sleep on the train with one open to be sure noone took yr stuff while you snoozed...zzzzzz
I Always Loved taking the train. Always. Still do.
DeleteThanks for the trip to Lyon, obviously I need to visit these markets there next time I'm in France! (We have a great market here in Adelaide) I would get the selection of mini cakes too - so glad you did, they all look delicious. I didn’t know they made bread/desserts out of sugar coated peanuts! Happy train tripping!
ReplyDelete