Basilique de Saint-Denis

Yesterday I went to the Basilica of Saint-Denis on the outskirts of Paris.

Ina Caro gives it a big chapter in her PARIS TO THE PAST. She suggests you see St.-Denis before visiting any other Gothic cathedral in France and rightly so.

*Catch Metro 13 at Saint-Lazare. About 20+ minutes later get off at stop Basilique de Saint-Denis. Caro mentions 'hold on to your purse' and so do others. Frankly I think this is an exaggeration. St. Denis is a working class, blue collar community not so different from where I lived previously in the 19th arrondissement. I really doubt petty crime is prevalent here. This is not the Eiffel tower. Don't be scared off visiting one of the magnificent cathedrals/monuments in Europe. The church is a 2-minute walk through a modern shopping complex. Make sure Carrefour supermarket is on your left. Soon you enter a large square with the cathedral on your left. Voila.

From the outside St. Denis is not all that impressive. But one step inside and you gasp.

The space is awe inspiring.

It's a pure, clear space with no deviations like Chartres, which you navigate in a circular route.

Notre Dame or Reims didn't effect me like Saint-Denis.

'The Gothic structure that stands today was begun in 1136 by Abbot Suger and not completed until the end of the 13th century. The church is an architectural landmark...considered to be the first major structure built in the Gothic style. The Abbey of Saint Denis was the burial site of the kings of France for centuries and has thus been referred to as the "royal necropolis of France." All but 3 of the monarchs of France from the 10th century until 1789 have their remains here'.

FYI Saint Denis is the patron saint of France and, according to legend, the first bishop of Paris. A simple shrine was originally erected at his burial place. Much more information HERE.

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You leave the main area to enter the necropolis behind the partition

A model of the cathedral and abbey in the old town of Saint Denis.

I recommend getting the excellent audio guide to tour the tombs.

'A funerary statue is a recumbent effigy of life-size statue sculptures dressed in their daily costume lying supine. It literally means “lying in repose”. Out of the 16 recumbent effigies commissioned by Saint Louis, 14 funerary statues remain today to demonstrate that the bold adventurous Philippe III, Isabel d’Aragon,Philippe VI, the stubborn Louis X and the infant king Jean 1^st were all heir to the Capetian dynasty'.

Over 70 funerary recumbent statues and tombs marking the final resting places of most of France’s historical figures. All but 3 of the monarchs of France from the 10th century until 1789 have their remains here. 

Dogs representing fidelity are exposed at the foot of women on their tombs. Nevertheless here it may be taken as a representation of guide dogs in the underground realms of death. Lions are carved at the foot of men’s recumbent tombs representing bravery, strength, ferocity and valour.

Louis XVIII and Marie-Antoinette's tomb.

In the crypt there's an exhibit of royal funeral engravings to give you a sense of grandeur.

Abbot Suger ordered the first stain glass windows ever. I stand corrected. Thank you Deborah. Either Le Mans or Poitiers have the first stain glass. More cathedrals to visit! On the right the original 'Tree of Jesse' (l'arbre de Jessie). The bluish panels are being restored.

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Please add Saint-Denis to your must-visit lists. Words can't describe the experience. I can say the Taj Mahal doesn't hold a candle to St.-Denis.