Rue Mouffetard Map

Quite a few mentioned Rue Mouffetard as a favorite Paris street I should draw ✍️ 

It was not my favorite street till I visited it many times for the map artwork.

'Rue Mouff' is both long and old. I decided to draw only the pedestrian paved way.

The barrier above starts at rue de l'Epee de Bois and heads downward. Most food shops are in this limited area anyway.

An old postcard of rue Mouff

It hasn't changed much. I took this last Sunday morning.

The base of the street has a fountain and a small marché. 

Don't miss the most amazing yogurt you will Ever taste at top traiteur Mavrommatis on nearby 47, rue Censier. It's uses milk from Greek cows but in made Paris. La crème de la crème. I bought a kilo bucket of the silkiest yogurt for a mere 5€.

The street if full of workers running up and down, many with baguettes 🥖 under their arms.

Go early to catch workers setting up.

The size of wheels of cheese in France are jaw dropping. There are FOUR fromageries on stretch of rue Mouff! And all worth investigating.

FromagerieAndrouet at the bottom is terrific the murals above the awning. Don't forget to look up ⬆️ 

Wine tasting in the street at one of the 3-4 wine sellers.

Mococha at #87, just above the barrier - a new discovery for me.

Superb, top drawer chocolates from France's best chocolatiers (Gillotte, Bellanger). You can buy just one chocolate to taste and don't miss the exquisite small cup of hot chocolate for 2€.

The soul and heartbeat of rue Mouff is at #123. 

Maison Morange boulangerie where lines are constant.

Another top purveyor, Patissier Carl Marletti at 51, rue Censier, famous for his winning  tarte citron and fraisier. If you arrive at noon on Sunday expect to settle for only a madeleine if you're lucky. The cupboard will be bare. Early birds get the tartes.

Nearly across from the boulangerie and serving their baguettes, the small bistro Le Verre à Pied serves a very good lunch formule for 11-15€. Do not show up at 2:50 and expect to get served by the way.

Hemingway lived in many residences around rue Mouf and it took me way too many sketches to capture his likeness. I got a helping hand from Nikon's Hemingway's Paris blog. Loaded with atmospheric photos of the roaring Twenties. A don't miss.

Julia Child shopped on rue Mouf often.

I think I did better justice to her cat, Minette on this months map.

I wanted Julia and Hemingway to form a kind of traditional cartouche.

Enfin the October Paris map letter is done and shipping out from la Poste today! Hooray. 

Now on to November map. Do look in my Etsy shop. 

Paris letters in your mailbox can be quite entertaining. Or so they tell me ;))

FIAC 2015

What I should have worn to last night's opening at Grand Palais of FIAC 2015? Hair. Lots of it. Do Not comb. Little 'French' heels (remember those?) worn with just plain old black tights. All black head-to-toe is the rule (got that) plus maybe a flash of Fall's hot color, khaki (missed out here).

The Grand Palais is such a gorgeous space.

Always astonishing

The interior structure is fabulous and worthy of endless gazing even if the art is not.

Porcelain disks attached with pins in a room of prize winners. Get closer in case you missed something.

I loved these. Pure color.

What to say? These viewers were smitten.

Filmed animated walkers in a frame. 

I still like the traditional stuff - paint on canvas. 

A walking artwork.

Talk about lush paint on canvas or rather the back of the canvas. Brit Howard Hodgkin. I'd take this home.

On the lookout for terrific clothes but FIAC is no match for crazy Paris Fashion Week.

I could use that blackboard.

Photoshopped 'paintings'.

An artwork with avocado seeds.

Wall art.

A smart phone clamped to your ear

You want to look in deep negotiations. Or you could be checking what's for dinner. 

The ubiquitous black tights every Parisian was wearing last night. K.I.S.S.

One abstract painted Birkin bag was sighted (possible price range 6,900€ - 100,000€). I bought the FIAC black bag sold in the boutique price (5€).

The hot, hot food of the night and selling out fast - The American Browny (spelled with a Y)
That's my biased report.
FIAC has taken over the city with international art shows at the docks, Tuilleries, Grand Palais. Great fun for people watching.

Alber Elbaz / Lanvin Manifeste

A wonderful show of  photos of  the creative process of couture designer Alber Elbaz/Lanvin is on through end of October at MAISON EUROPEENNE DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE, 5/7 rue de Fourcy 75004

I'm a long-time fan of Alber Elbaz.,artistic director of Lanvin.

His 'mission statement' hits home perfectly.

I can completely identify with his work station. I need an extension for my work table to put more stuff. Elbaz uses the floor like a shelf as I do, though his is more orderly...somewhat.

His toiles/muslins on display compliment the photos. They are simply mind-blowing. Toiles are the preparatory draping of the fabric usually on a fitting model or tailors dummy.

Many look like complex modern sculptures. So austere.

What goes on back in any designers fitting rooms is on view at MEP, not just photos.

This wrapped structured gauzy gown-to-be

Looks like this wrapped creamy pastry from Angelina. Is the pastry chef looking at Vogue or vice versa?

Blowups of Elbaz's loose, inky drawings line the walls

As a backdrop for the photos.

These are works in progress. How does a dress get created?

From sketch doodle to draping on the fitting model. An amazing transition. from line on paper to fabric.

Much like Jeanne Lanvin of the maison, draping directly on the model.

Bolts of silk lie on the floor like in any couture atelier. The walls display the actual paper patterns for the garments. This exhibit is any design students dream.

Photos of the finished pieces. What I love about Elbaz' designs are their purity. Strong color, inventive shapes, amazing fabrics.

He doesn't follow the latest trends nor is influenced by anything but the form, the fabric, the color.

Absolute artistry.

Alber Elbaz watches the collection from backstage hidden, pondering...
Triple videos are displayed of backstage chaos before the models swan out onto the runway like goddesses.
*You can catch my snippet of film on Flickr. Enjoy!