Les Fetes du Miel Luxembourg, September Map

I've been longing to visit the Fete du Miel - jardins du Luxumbourg

Twice a year in Fall and Spring they sell the honey from the garden hives and you can sign on for classes at Pavillon Davioud.

I bought a 500g (9€) jar of their honey. No pesticides are used in the city gardens unlike country honey so Paris honey is very pure. Read lots more on French honey at David Lebovitz.
I could have used these teaching boards when I was trying to draw bees in the September street map...more later.

Coming out of the musee du Luxembourg and walking towards boulevard St. Michel I discovered a fabulous photography exhibit lining the outside railings of the gardens. Les Routes du Miel (the honey roads) just opened September 19 on through January 19, 2016.

At least 80 big boards with explanations in 3 languages of how honey is produced the world over. I did not miss a single caption. Absolutely fascinating and the photographs are magnificent.
Photographer Eric Tourneret spent 10 years traveling around the world gathering information. There are bee hives on Notre Dame! This is a smashing don't-miss exhibition if you're coming to Paris. Plus no lines and it's free. Maybe the most exciting I've seen this year.

If you thought I didn't get to church this week (I've been averaging 3 a week) you'd be wrong. I took an hour off from mapping to tour Notre Dame with NYU Medieval art historian, Deborah (in the rain but how many times so you get a chance like that?). One important fact I want to share with you. Walk around the outside of the church before you rush inside, even if it is raining. You'll get a much better sense of it's structure. Inside and outside are connected after all.

Paris was buzzing Sunday. It was no-car zone day almost everywhere. Streets were jammed with walkers, scooters, bikers and brides. Perfect weather too.

Not one person on Ile Saint-Louis was without an ice cream cone in hand, myself included (fraise-pistache).

On to the dreaded map of rue des Martyrs. I could have used this detailed bee reference.

My main source of reference besides Elaine Sciolino's terrific book, THE ONLY STREET IN PARIS, was a vertical Japanese map of rue des Martyrs. Should I draw the the map vertically? The copy shop kid said, "No way!"

My other inspiration source - a page of engravings of French professions (glass bottle seller, sweets, tailor etc.) I spotted it in Maille mustard shop in the Louvre. I stole a shot when no one was looking. Rue des Martyrs is a grand mixup of artisans old and new, patissieres, waffle-makers, gold-leaf experts.

Voila. Naturally my first effort didn't satisfy me. Too much squiggly printing. A re-do drawing finished just before the copy shop closed on Saturday. Your Paris Street maps are shipping out Monday PBers c/o la Poste. Or subscribe here.  My favorite Fragonard painting was in the Luxembourg show from the New York Met. It's called "The Letter".

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Elisabeth Vigee Le Brun - Grand Palais

The first French retrospective of portrait artist, Elisabeth Louise Vignée le Brun (1755-1864) opens Wednesday at Grand Palais - 130 works.

It's on till January 11, 2016

Clever Vignee Le Brun painted many self-portraits early days in her career - perhaps the first 'selfies'?

Her father, a pastel artist of some renown, taught her how to effectively use her tools.

Though he died when she was just 12, her path was chosen. She studied diligently the work of many artists of her time and in 1776 married Jean-Babtiste Pierre le Brun, important gallery owner of his generation(clever girl again). He continued her artistic education.

I was smitten with her repeated use of robin's egg blue throughout her early portraits.

Such a becoming color makes the sitter's cheeks look fresh and rosy.

A lovely pet portrait.

Certainly a sketch or etude. Le Brun began by doing self-portraits and portraits of her friends, mainly of the bourgeoisie. Word of her talent spread and Queen Marie-Antoinette summoned her to paint herself and her family and her reputations was established among the aristocracy.

Vigee Le Brun was also known for her paintings of 'maternal tenderness'.

'Since the Royal Academy was founded in 1648, under the Regency of Anne of Austria, only a very limited number of female artists had been admitted. As they were not allowed to draw nude males in life classes, they were excluded from the most esteemed genre, history painting, which required a perfect understanding of anatomy and the assimilation of gesture codes. Therefore, Vigée Le Brun concentrated on portraits, despite some very fine incursions into history and genre paintings. Her desire to break away from the constraints imposed upon female artists enabled her to develop very personal techniques and aesthetic criteria. She mastered the science of colours and invented a whole range of poses and costumes that brought great variety to her portraits and improvisations.' More info HERE.

The exhibit covers 2 floors. take the stairway up on the right

So as not to miss the smashing view of the Grand Palais arcades.

The Queen en famille. Red became dominant in her color palette.
When the Revolution took over, Vigee le Brun had to flee for her life.

She spent 12 years traveling around Europe, even to Russia, before returning to France.

Lovely small pastel landscape sketches..

Vigee le Brun knew how to capture those Paris clouds.

I looked high and low in the Grand Palais gift shop for some robin's egg blue silk ribbons. Dommage

But they missed out on that detail.

They also missed out on pastel-colored meringues.
September 23 - January 11 2016 Elisabeth Vigee le Brun - Grand Palais.
More photos HERE.
Blue and pink Kitty portrait in the Metro yesterday.

Hotel Royal Monceau Raffles, Möet Hennessy

A plethora of Noel preview tastings. Buche from Pierre Hermé collection for

 Royal Monceau's forthcoming Christmas celebration in December- petite bouchée of mini Ispahans

Bites of foie gras mini 'burgers' on mini sesame buns to sustain us

Buche 'Sarah' - moelleux aux marrons, crème aux marrons glaces, crème onctueuse au the vert et compote de fruite de la passion'.

Buche 'Azur' - biscuit chocolat, sable diamant Infiniment vanilla, fine feuille de chocolat.

Buche 'Infiniment Vanille' - pate a sable Breton, ganache et crème de mascarpone a la vanilla, biscuit imbibe au jus de vanilla, pate sable.

Let the cutting begin

Nothing mini about these slices.

An ample portion of Infiniment Vanille accompaning by the perfect Port.

And buche Azur with its perfect companion, a glass of Muscat.

The week before a gorgeous tasting of Champagnes-Scotch from Möet Hennessy.

Giant Moet bubbles to dream of

Specially created miniature 'potatoes' filled with sweet cream by pastry chef Sebastien Gaudard to go with the Krug.

I cannot resist anything passion fruit/mango flavor including a Bellevdere vodka cocktail

Little jars of red fruits drinks and a liquidized 'millefeuille'. Now that's a first.

The most divine starter ever - fresh peach slices with a molded faux peach pit made of foie gras!

Bottles of Scotch and brandies...such lovely golden colors. Very Fall.

And brandy tastings for everyone.

Attendees take off. After all this luxe et volupte you might want to recover with some fresh veggies

At Israeli Miznon in the Marais, 22, rue des Ecouffes, 75004.

Go at noon or just after before the crowds hits. Excellent.

Look at this heavenly 📮Veuve Clicquot Champagne yellow mailbox new for this year's Xmas. Perfect for receiving your Paris mail !