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Sunday, May 26, 2013

My Marché Grenelle

 I bet everyone who lives in Paris thinks their marché is the best. 

I'm absolutely certain I live near the best marché hands down. Marche Grenelle Blvd Grenelle 75015

The reason I moved to Paris is simple. I wanted to have radis/French radishes and carrot rapée everyday.
 
Even though radis are grown in the Ile de France, the same Province Paris is in, the price fluctuates every week up and down like the stock market. They're available all through the winter too which I never expected. Usually you can eat them without washing.
 
Apricots are just starting to show up in the marché. Note in the corner 'ESP' . That's for Espana. People prefer their fruit and veg from France. It's the law - the origin must be stated for an item.
 
Cerise are new this week coming in from ESP and Grece so far. I tasted one and it was perfect IMHO. Still I'll wait a bit for the prices to fall.
 
There are lots of specialists in the marche coming in from the hinterlands. This chap is promoting his cooked-on-the-spot Aligot, a dish traditionally from the Aveyron. It's made of mashed potatoes, melted cheese, cream, butter and loads of garlic. Have you tried it?
 
This woman's specialty is escargot/snails and other seafood farci like scallops and moules.
 
The apple lady hails from the Loire vallee. She grows everything on her farm and produces endless variations on a theme - apple cake, jellies, juice, pate de fruit, you name it all apple-based.

I planned to come back and get some apples to paint but of course there was a big line. Next time.
 
Every single marche I buy une cuisse de poulet cuite from this woman hot off the rotisserier. Just hold up your thumb if you can't pronounce that mouthful when buying one thigh.
 
And I always get tabouleh from these Libanaise purveyors, who kindly throw in what we call a pita and they call pain. I'm addicted.
 
What to wear to the marche? It's still chilly here in the 40s-50s, so woolly scarf, coat and carry a pup under your arm. If you haven't got a pup to carry at the very least have a pup on your shopping bag. It's de rigueur in the marche.

29 comments:

  1. Anonymous8:17 AM

    What cheering post!
    Wonderful colors in your marché
    Merci
    Frankie

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  2. Anonymous8:47 AM

    Fabulous post. Just another reason for us to return to Paris. You don't mention which marche it is? Would you please share?

    Merci

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    Replies
    1. Marché Grenelle bd Grenelle 75017
      Weds and Sundays
      8:30 - 1:30

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  3. Greens are hard to get just right I find..Love your in this palette..And your radishes.. :)
    I should concentrate on trying different fruits and vegs..I ahve some beautiful asparagus..
    Love markets and I am sure I would love that one..
    I have never had Aligiot but have heard of it..Same weather here!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Just don't use the green straight out of the tube
      You have to flavor it a bit with a touch of yellow or Naples
      It's the reds making the greens look good in fact.

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  4. I really wish I could type..HAVE and yourS.

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  5. At my neighbourhood market last year, Port-Royal, the Lebanese food was my favourite. The vendor always gave something extra "pour le plaisir". The fruit and vegetables always looked exquisite. The Maubert market was also quite close to me but it is a more bigger more crowded market. I bought some clothing and a scarf at Edgar Quinet. This year's market was Raspail because I lived on Cherche-Midi, next door to Poilâne. I love waking to your blog as I feel that Paris is my real home.

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  6. ... And don't forget to always bring a bag with you as most vendors only have cheap plastic bags versions :-) Ah, this post reminded me of the good old days. That is how I shopped too, as a single girl, and it seems I bought many of the same things you get on your trips to le Marché Carol. :-) For dessert, I would always get a small container of faisselle or creamy fromage blanc; and sliced fresh fruit (like strawberries on it...) -- The good old days. Come to think of it, I don't think I have ever tried Aligot, but in this chilly spring weather, it sounds like a really good idea :-)

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    Replies
    1. I tried the Aligot...it may be an acquired taste..trés riche

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  7. I'm in love with that radish painting! I don't actually like radishes - though I have tried and found ONE way I like them (quick-roasted with olive oil and served on a slice of bread) but I often grow them so I can paint them!!
    Your weather is awfully cold for this time of year...

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    Replies
    1. The French radishes rarely have the bite of US radis.
      And very crunchy
      Maybe it's their air-brushed pinkie color I love...

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  8. radis w/salt and butter, white asperges, Aligot and cherries sound like a wonderful meal...thanks for intoducing me to Monoprix carrot rappe...

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  9. Anonymous12:37 PM

    I love the Marche of Paris and try to visit them all---which one is near you? Not trying to pry but I am always up for new ones.
    My old favorite is at Place Maubert and second the Bastille oh and the one by Hotel Lutetia but all my Paris friends say I have to go to Aligre Market--next time.
    LuLu

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  10. Just had my first apricot of the season and it was delicious. It seems those firsts of the season taste the best.

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  11. Hehe. Mine is smiles better. But then I'm not keen on radishes. Although my exception is your incredible watercolour of them, Carol. Yep, for the yuppy puppy in the shopping bag, it's à la mode. Yesterday saw 3 of them in 15 mins going along rue de Passy!

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  12. Anonymous12:40 PM

    I vote for the marche on Blvd Auguste Blanqui. I loved not only the great variety, but the fact that so many people (mainly women) come all dressed up, and many bring their chiens! And there is little pushing and shoving a la NYC!
    Jane

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    Replies
    1. See everyone has a favorite.
      If it's in your quartier they get to know you a bit which adds to the fun.
      M. Grenelle is crowded but no pushing.
      You could step on a dog to child

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  13. Anonymous1:20 PM

    What fun and the veggies look so fresh...I can taste the chicken....
    Lynne

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  14. Now I'm starving. I love radish sandwiches with butter & salt. I also like aligote, but not too much due to the richness.

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  15. That Aligot sounds delish. Well, anything with loads of garlic always sounds good to me.;) Thanks for sharing your marché with us. x Katie

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  16. Great shots, made me hungry, too. The chicken looked good!

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  17. Anonymous11:46 PM

    Love the pic of the radishes.
    This marche looks absolutely yummy.
    Lynn

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  18. Carol, that adorable Yorkie has stolen my heart!!!!!!!!!
    Perhaps a bite of poulet for her/him would be in order???????
    Natalia

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  19. Anonymous6:33 AM

    Great to see your favourite marche in Paris. If you haven't tried the Aligot you must...of course it tastes even better with a glass of Aligote a dry white wine. My daughters husbands family come from the Auvergne which is in the same area using the cheese from that region. & we often have it at her home, it's a winter/ cold day favourite, made with a fresh cantal cheese which is very mild. from now on through the summer in different small towns we have 'Les producteurs marche ' it's good to support the local producers.
    Barbara

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  20. Carol, your market looks like a great place to find delicious fresh food and also to people watch. It's so much fun to make regular visits to markets at this time of the year...every week some other produce makes its first appearance.

    (I also think French radishes are quite good. Have you tried saute-ing very thinly sliced radishes in sesame oil?)

    xo

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  21. I'm so behind reading Paris posts at the minute, what a wonderful one to discover first today. So lovely to see the spring and summer fruits and vegetables arriving, although sad to see how cold it still is there. I hope that it warms up soon- at the moment my winter in Australia is warmer than spring in Paris most days! As always I love your watercolour most of all. However I got very distracted by Disco Soupe on the Marche sign! I have no idea what that means, it does sound fun though.

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  22. I think I prefer your radishes to the real thing! You are very good to be so on top when things are in season, I'm going to get myself a calendar so I know because Monoprix doesn't help on this at all! (Am also going to pledge to go to my market more often, but it's super cher).

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  23. Well, I love your radishes, and actually, I love radishes anywhere (including Rick's garden -- so delicious!) Your market is just splendid and the next time I am in Paris I will go there, find lovely things and enjoy them in the nearest park! It's finally getting to be Michigan produce time here -- strawberries soon (not those things that taste like styrofoam peanuts that travel thousands of miles to be here!) and real fresh cherry season. Yum. Oh, I can't wait!

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  24. I loved our visit to your marche! One of the best in Paris.
    Jeannie

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