Thursday, February 26, 2009

Rue Mouffetard...

Diwali Mouffetard, 9" x 11"
Are there certain well known streets in Paris you have never walked down?
I have never walked down rue MouffetardShame on moi.
Situated in the fifth (cinquième) arrondissement of Paris, Rue Mouffetard is one of Paris's oldest and liveliest neighbourhoods. These days the area has many restaurants, shops, and cafés, and a regular open market. So says Wikipedia. I have walked a ton down Rue Montorgueil on the other hand, but then it's loaded with pastry and gelato shops...Hmmm Look! A Paris line.
Rue Cler is another street I've somehow missed up on.
But I'll be 2 minutes away from it in a couple of weeks so I'll comb every inch of it for you... Anne took me here in the Marais and promises to guide me down Avenue Montaigne - the poshes of Parisian streets.
Are there any pastry shops on it though? Do you have a favorite street I should explore? Tell all!
It's odd how you go back to the same old places over and over again in Paris...but then you feel comfortable there, so it makes perfect sense doesn't it?
Will this corner cafe become my new home away from home?
Especially since I have to climb 6-7 flights to reach it...
I'm whipping myself into shape for those stairs..
Mostly whipping...Hmmm


  1. Stephanie12:02 PM

    Rue Mouffetard is my FIRST love in Paris! I lived in a small place there for my first extended stay in Paris in college. I now have dreams (at night) of returning to Paris and being on Mouf! I just ADORE that street, area and my memories of rue Mouffetard. I attended the Sorbonne and walked around the little streets in the 5eme! If you go to Paris and walk on rue Mouffetard and paint it--I would love to see it!
    Thanks...I love your posts!


  2. Just wanted to let you know how much I love your storefront paintings.
    They remind me of "New Yorker" magazine cartoons.

  3. I am enjoying your "new" paintings of people, store fronts, doggies...super charming!

  4. I need to find a cafe with 6 or 7 flights of stairs, that way I can indulge in a guilt-free treat. Love these shots and your painting!

  5. Food Walker12:25 PM

    You'll have a pair of those gorgeous Parisian legs after all those steps!!!

  6. I just wanted to tell how much I enjoy your blog! I am a french girl several flights away from home and it is fun to see how much you like France and its culture ( by this I mean macarons!) :) I featured you on my blog here:
    keep the good work!

  7. Keep thinking of French bread now and can taste it but can't buy it.. There is a lovely area to explore on a sunday and you go up to the Sacre Coeur then round the corner in Montmartre and all the artists are dressed up in the old French costumes and there always painting. There is a great pastry shop thats open and sometimes there is a line of vintage cars going past. They would make good paintings.

  8. Carol, I absolutely love what you’re doing with your artwork these days;


  9. Try Cafe St. Andre, at Place St. Andre des Arts. It's on a triangular block, between Rue Suger and Rue Danton. Metro St. Michel, but you can walk over the bridge from Metro Chatelet (and I always walked back this way on my way home; great view of Notre Dame). There are several cafes in the area, only one called Cafe St. Andre. You'd think it would be full of tourists, but not so. The best steak-frites in town. Get the haricots verts on the side or substitute for frites. Desserts are brought in, so don't bother. Very friendly staff, no English spoken..On the border with Cinquieme, so you can walk to many intersting streets.

  10. Ah,ah,ah, no pastry shops on Avenue Montaigne, there are just luxurious stores and the famous Plaza Athénée. I love Rue Cler; I lived two blocks from this great street. Paris is waiting for you!

  11. Angie1:06 PM

    Hi my name is Angie and I love your work, I have always wanted to go to
    Paris and because of your pictures, I have. I own The Wedding Shoppe on
    Main Street of a small town in Missouri. I was wondering if you could
    take pictures of small bridal salons in Paris I have tried to find
    pictures but your pictures are so detailed.
    Thank you for your time,

  12. I saw this today and thought of you as it describes what you do.
    'I came

    I saw

    l clicked'

    Jill xx

  13. Anonymous1:17 PM

    I think you would enjoy Rue Lepic in Montmartre. It's a true hilly market street and a feast for both the eyes and the tummy! MANY boulangeries, butcheries, as well as a great sefood merchant. I think you would enjoy the chocolate croissants at Le Petite Mitrons at 26 Rue Lepic. It's also not far from Denise Acabo's shop so you should treat yourself to that -- a visual and chocolate paradise. I'm suggesting this selfishly of course -- I would love to see your take on this magical street.

  14. Asuncion1:45 PM

    Oh Carol...Today you just write about one of my favourite places in Paris...Rue Mouffetard.
    When you travel you use to search places where you can find chocolate,cakes,éclairs,tartes,croissants...But when I travel I love to visit food-markets,open air and closed ones,and for me Mouffetard is like an open market:when I walked down,I used to buy clean coquilles Saint-Jacques in a Poissonerie on the left side and eat them while I walked around and when I was returning home and going up I stopped in a Fromagerie near le Pantheon to buy one of the best bries and goat cheese you could find in Paris ;D
    I also love to go to the open-market under the metro-railways-bridge(I don´t know how you call that in English)in the Boulevard Grenelle(I can´t remember if it is on Tuesdays or on Wednesdays) and the bio-one of the Boulevard Raspail in the weekends mornings.
    Thank you for bringing back to my memory that beautiful moments.

  15. Carol1:59 PM

    At the end of Avenue Montaigne (closest to Seine...I lived at Arc de Triomphe/Parc Monceau end, so am oriented from that direction...) there is a wonderful cafe, both L'Avenue, tres posh and great people watching on a sunny day, or across from the Theatre..can't recall name but it is burgundy in color, classic French and lots of people involved in arts go there..I have seen Catherine Deneuve and Anouk Aimee amongst others...just great for a lunch or coffee...I am quite envious, I can see it all now and miss it soooo much! Of course you have Dalloyau on Rue St.Honore which is always a treat....have you been to the market at Place des Ternes? wonderful cheese shop as well as fish store as well as one of the first Paul boulangeries....

  16. Hey, I just walked down Rue Mouffetard for the first time today! I am reminded I have not yet walked Rue Cler!

  17. Anonymous2:52 PM

    I love Avenue Victor Hugo!

  18. Anonymous3:31 PM

    Vous avez jamais visitez la Rue de la Butte aux Cailles?
    Pour la première foi, apès des années que je frequent Paris je suis allé aux Chateau de Vincenne, très beau.
    Bonne visite à tout le monde.

  19. Linda3:39 PM

    I love Paris and I am an artist as well...or I am attempting to work more at painting. Reading your daily post is something I look forward to each morning.
    I stayed in that area in the past in the Tim Hotel and plan to return but want to live in an apartment next time.

  20. You've never experienced the Mouff?? Oh my ... You are in for a treat next time you visit! Make sure you are there for the morning market. I took this picture there earlier this month (and couldn't help thinking of your blog as I did so!)

    Here's another:

  21. I do have a favorite street you should explore! It's this one:

    This delicious restaurant was close by:

    as well as this Creperie:

  22. wonderful, Carol!

  23. Verbena6:21 PM

    My husband and I have traveled to Paris several times, and we are currently yearning to return. The neighborhood around Rue Cler is usually our home base when in Paris. The market and restaurants are wonderful. We can't wait to see any facades you might paint from the area!

  24. Have you visited the Rose Bakery?
    Any photos?

  25. Micah6:23 PM

    shame on MOI = honte à moi,
    but today it's usual to say :
    je suis nul(le)
    c'est nul ouais (ouais = oui, but prononce like way), c'est vrai

  26. ParisBreakfast6:34 PM

    OK JANET I will check out Le Vieux Paris
    Though it looks a litte riche pour moi...
    But your other links have no addresses or names
    Aidez moi!

  27. Rue Daguerre please....

  28. Yes!
    Please do yourself an enchanting favor, and savour Rue Ordener in the XVIIIeme, and Rue Caulaincourt, too.
    These are the most beloved streets of my childhood. At Place Jules Joffrin (there's the Metro there), there are some very fine shops (like the Comptoir Joffrin), a branch of the Public Library, and a great cafe near Notre-Dame-de-Clignancourt church.

  29. Beaitiful colors, ove the turquoise!!! Great painting adventures to you!

  30. BIG MERCI PB readers!!!
    your suggestions are IMMENSELY helpful !
    And I just have to check back here as a reminder ! ! !

  31. Sophia8:04 PM

    I love rue Moufftard, but my all time favorite is rue de Bac.

  32. Heavens - there were so many comments, I've forgotten what I set out to say...but that won't stop me. How about that 6 or 7 flights up place? You can eat absolutely anything and everything after that climb!

  33. Trisha9:53 PM

    No pastry shops on the Avenue Montaigne but the Bar du Theatres is one of my old standbys.
    great lamb and croque monsieur

  34. Trisha9:57 PM

    No pastry shops on the Avenue Montaigne but the Bar du Theatres is one of my old standbys.
    6 av. Montaigne, 8e,

  35. I am not a fan of Rue Cler or as many call it Rue Rick Steves.

  36. I just stumbled upon your blog a few minutes ago, and I already know that I am going to LOVE it! I used to be a French teacher and I have just started a blog which pertains to Paris. I actually accidentally found your blog as I was looking for images of a Parisian cafe. I mentioned your blog in my post today. I hope you don't mind. Feel free to visit my new blog:
    I wish you all of the best.

  37. Why don't you try rue de Cherche du Midi in the 6th!

  38. Susan5:55 AM

    I'm surprized that you haven't been down Rue Mouffetard. Well, you will love it especially towards the end where the food market opens out. There is a wonderful bookshop to the right at the bottom of the stret whih you would like and of course along the length f the street there are many patisseries.

    I lived in paris for 6 months and before that visited over a 20 year period. Imagine my surprise when i discovered something totally different.
    You may find it interesting to walk down the lesser known covered passages - passages Vivienne and the passage de Grand Cerf near Rue Montugeil
    And there is also another sequence of passages that begin in Boulevard des Italiens and heads towards Cadet metro.
    Anyway Spring will be arriving!
    have a wonderful trip!
    Bon voyage!

  39. Simon5:58 AM

    Rue Daguerre because...
    ate some beautiful seafood from a seafood vendor there-the first time I was in Paris, coincidence I was given an address there to buy cheese and wine...

  40. Deb in Vancouver5:59 AM

    Just wanted to thank you again for the fun, smiles and dreams on an otherwise ordinary day!!!!
    Thanks Carol.
    your friend,
    Deb in Vancouver

  41. Merci Pour les photos!
    Have you photographed the "Rue Saint Andre des Arts" A narrow little street filled with boutiques that runs parallel to the Boulevard Saint Germain. I used to go to a venerable old high school there called The Lycee Fenelon. I wonder if it is still there.

  42. Anonymous9:51 AM

    Please don´t miss Café Antoine (17 rue La Fontaine, closed Sundays),in one of Guimard's buildings. Several of the buildings on the side streets in the same block as the Cafe Antoine contain Guimard's Art Nouveau creations and street signs. Guimard's subway entrances are all over the city, as you may know.

    Gabriela Haymes (from Buenos Aires)

    See pictures of his work at

  43. si c'est possible...

    there's a hotel on the rue st. andre des arts -in fact the hotel st. andre des arts - which is of significant, romantic, nostalgic importance to me. would love to know if it's still there would make a lovely painting if it is (and if it's still red...) sigh.

  44. You must walk along Rue Mouffetard on your next visit and bring lots of pictures back with you.

  45. Anonymous8:48 PM

    I lived for several years at the rue de l'Exposition, a short walk from the (pre-Steves) rue Cler. It's a lovely, very French little street with an arch at the end. Check it out and post pictures if you can, I haven't been back for years.
    Love your blog!

  46. medimeda1:11 PM

    Yes I agree. You keep going to the same places over and over and you wonder if it is getting boring or not. It is not really clear and you don’t really understand the feeling because unexpectedly it is a sweet feeling. After a while (a relative long period settling in this city) you realize that Paris has no limits in terms of time and space. Literally, everywhere and every time you walk or you bike through Paris, you must discover something new and again you never get bored if you keep going over and over to that place. So, after several years being in this city I found that I need my personal “Quartier General” (my street, my bar, my restaurant, my Boulanger, my arabe du coin, my farmers market…) where I can relax, where I know pretty much everybody, where I have my intimate social life. From this Havre de Paix, I always keep exploring the new worlds in Paris intra-muros. Paris, it is a sweet dream without limit. Well, only if you know how to appreciate it of course.


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